Day 17, Sunday, June 5 – Singen to Lindau, Germany

Monday 6 June 2011

Out of the door at 8:00 this morning to bright sunshine and the promise of a clear day.

We kept a quick pace,

as we had a ferry to catch 22 miles away in Konstanz and only a vague idea what time (rumor was 11:00 am) the ferry left and not exactly sure were to catch it.  Again a few quick views of Lake Konstanz

as we fly by.

We reached the water and ferry boats by 10:00, plenty of time to catch the beautiful sights of the city before our departure.  A quick check of the ferry schedule for where we wanted to go and quickly had to board a boat.  This is what we can offer you of the city of Konstanz

but recommend seeing it longer than a ferry ride out of town!

So not only were we going to see the Bodensee, we were going to sail the Bodenee.

We had an hour stop in Meersburg,

before we boarded our next boat.  Charming town

and home of Annette von Droste-Huelshoff, one of Germany’s most important author/poets of the 19th century.

A quick picture of some tourists.

Three countries, Germany, Switzerland and Austria touch the Bodensee with their small and large towns reaching to the water.   The advantage/disadvantage of riding a boat is

you can take lots of pictures without stopping.

BUT, wouldn’t mind returning and biking the entire lake, anyone join us?  Pizza Slice has signed on!!

Though we have breathtaking shoreline to watch go by,

we have a few hours on the ferry.  Time enough, anyway, to study the map AND see the Alps getting closer and closer.  Apparently, we are going to pay dearly for this beautiful stop in Lindau.

Can you SEE the snow caps in the distance??  We Can!

And then we enter the harbour of Lindau.

The only thing missing

is my family that I shared this with many (many) years ago, Austin, too, whom we would love to share this with…….Love You Guys!

We find a beautiful hotel, with a view of the snow capped Alps (yikes),

quickly drop our bags from the bike and head into town for another look around.

Beautiful day, beautiful town!

Our hotel recommended a restaurant down the street that served ‘good German food’, it was fantastic, cream of asparagus soup (to die for), steak with sauteed onions, homemade red cabbage, spätzle with cheese……yum, yum, yum!

Sunset meant

it was time for bed.

 

Day 18, Monday, June 6 – Lindau to Memmingen, Germany

Monday 6 June 2011

Out with the Monday morning rush hour, but just cars, no bikers and definitely no tour bikers helping us find our way.  We wound through town for about a mile and then started to climb, climbed for two straight miles.  Which was very tough, considering our breakfast of smoked salmon, sun-dried tomatoes and Brie on fresh baked bread, etc, etc.

But it was worth it, the vistas were beautiful and the Alps (yes, they are there on the horizon)

were slowly disappearing behind us.  Don’t misunderstand, the Alps are breathtakingly beautiful, but we do not want to be anywhere close to them when traveling by bike.

What we did enjoy seeing were the small towns,

beautiful fields and

farms,

covered bridges,

small streams

and all with a wind to our back.  Can’t say we really felt the wind when climbing some of the 14% grades, but it was nice on the straight-a-ways.

Not sure if this is a castle,

but it seems at every turn into a town

 

or out into the country,

we were treated to another treasure.

We traveled with a bike map for the first 10 miles; about the time the map ended, so did the bike signs.  So we rode the bike path beside a highway.  Thanks to Jerry’s navigational skills, we found our way to Wagen.

What an unexpected treat.

Still looking for a bike map, Duckys’ enjoyed a moment alone.

From this enchanting town we headed back into the country

and it’s beautiful terrain.

At 2:00, way sooner than we thought (okay, so the wind helped) we reached out destination to the sound of thunder.  We quickly found our hotel in the center of the city and got checked in.  We stopped in Memmingen because the mileage worked, what we didn’t expect was this……

And the chocolate shops of all chocolate shops…..

….check out the chandeliers.

Even a shop that sells the authentic clothing of Bavaria.

Just unreal.

So with just a little extra time on our hands, we stop at a shop or two

and enjoy ourselves.

Day 19, Tuesday, June 7 – Memmingen to Grafrath, Germany

Thursday 9 June 2011

We’re Back!!  Sorry to be away so long, but internet access has been impossible.  Read on, and you will understand…..but it’s a long one.

There are many ways to get to the Danube River, once you leave the River Rhein.  The first turn could have been at Mainz, but we wanted to do the entire Rhein, hence our trip all the way to the Bodensee.  From there, again there were several choices of travel to get the Danube.  We’ve decided on a couple of short side trips to Munich and Augsburg (where Jerry spent three years as a teen) and then on to Danube and points beyond…….of which we know nothing about!!  And so the story begins…..

We had a late start to our journey today, as a bookstore promised us the ‘elusive’ bike map would be at their store when they opened at 9 am.  Indeed it was, but what we did not know is the town that was so quite last night would be alive with shoppers
hunting the freshest in meats, cheeses, vegetable, fruits, etc. just magical….
As is the city.

But we cannot play tourist all day, so we venture out with map in hand.  Unfortunately, the map didn’t actually get us out of town.  However, Ingrid did;
stopping to help, she lead us until we reached bike signs that connected us with our map.

The ride today was beautiful,
the sun was warm,
the breeze was cool
and the sights amazing.
Every single color of green lay before us,
touched by beautiful blue sky
and white billowy clouds.
The majestic Alps, (yes, on the horizon)
kept their presence known each time we reached a peak of a hill.  Oh yes, the hills……there was climbing,

but each time we reached the top we were treated to beautiful views.
We did have stretches in between that were flat,
so we were able to recover each time.
Just before noon we dropped from the fields into the Allstad (old city) of Mindelheim,
enjoying the sights and lunch.
Shortly after 1:00 we noticed our crystal blue skies were gathering clouds.
The wind joined in shortly with gusts slowing us down, but it was still a glorious day to ride.
Around 2:00, after a wonderful drop from the hill we’d just climbed we arrived at an intersection that totally befuddled us.  We ‘thought’ we needed to go in one direction, but the sign distinctly pointed in the opposite direction.  That is when we met Hans.  The “sign was definitely wrong” and he would lead us in the direction we needed to go.  Now Hans is in ridiculously great shape; next week heading to the Alps for two weeks of racing, so needless to say we were not exactly matched in riding “styles”.  But he was gracious enough to take us to a point we could navigate and continued on his ride (another 70 miles).
We had planned on staying in Landsberg,
but we reached the town at 3:00 in the middle of heavy traffic and mobs of people.  Our idea was to get away from the crowds and stop to formulate a plan.  But the middle of the city is rough cobblestone streets and the street led straight up hill; a very steep hill.  By the time we made it to the top gasping for air, we didn’t feel like staying, more like riding.  We had made a backup plan though, staying on the Amersee, if our initial destination came with ease; so we rode on.  In hindsight, not a good plan. We reached the Lake of Ammersee,
to find no room at the inn(s).  So this is the only picture we have as we knew that we would be touring the area once we checked in at the next town, three kilometers away.

Turns out there was no room in the Inn in the second town, or the next, OR the next.  Everyone said, just three more kilometers is the next town and “they” have rooms.  Of course, each 3 kilometers required an uphill climb.

By 6:00 pm, when we’d pulled into a pension that again said, ‘no rooms, but if you go just 3 more kilometers‘, I was about to pack it in.  The cloudy skies were starting to spit and there seemed no end in sight to the “3 kilometer saga’.  But we had to press on, though the last 3K was actually six.  At the bottom of a hill, in the pouring rain looking for the only hotel in town a gentleman pulled up and offered directions…….”just over the hill is a restaurant that rents rooms”, perfect!  We struggled up the badly construction torn road and sailed into the parking lot of a good local restaurant that had NO rooms.

Just as the restaurant owner was going to call the next town searching for a room, Jerry gets a phone call at the restaurant.  The man who had told us how to get to this spot, was calling to make sure we had a room. With none available, he offered us a room at his home.  He would meet us in an hour, after we could get some much needed dinner

and lead us to his home.  At the risk of sounding sappy, it actually brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it (even) now.

Manfred and Gabrielle,

are wonderful people along with their beautiful daughter, who will soon have out her first novel, and soon to be soccer star, son.  Not only did they offer us a beautiful (king size) bed and bath, but we enjoyed their company and beer and wine until late in the evening, solving all the world’s problems.  And if you two are reading this, we REALLY hope to see you in the near future, maybe on a bike touring adventure or in the islands!!

But time for bed and after 70 miles and hours in the saddle, we were ready.

Day 20, Wednesday, June 8 – Grafrath to Munchen/Munich, Germany

Thursday 9 June 2011

Last night’s rain clouds were waiting for us this morning.  Quite pretty, just so long as they didn’t rain on us!  The threat was real enough though that we could only get one ‘travel’ photo.


We only had a short trek into Munchen this morning (so we hoped), but we did need to beat the rain that was predicted for the afternoon.  However, ‘short’ treks in the hills mean nothing relative to time and distance.  We had several climbs, a few times on very rough gravel paths; even resorted to riding through a field, just for some smoother terrain.  A cool but beautiful day.

Reached München/Munich by 11:00, but it took us another hour through more road construction to get into the center of the city (like pros).  Stopped for lunch (just before it started to pour) and to find a hotel room, only to find every room in the city was booked ARE YOU KIDDING ME???  Three hundred hotels, at least 15,000 rooms and they are ALL BOOKED!!!  Is this a joke?  As we find out there is a “fair” in town and the only room available within 40 miles  is a 2-star hotel for over $400. DOLLARS and that doesn’t include internet!.  So here we are in this fabulous city in the pouring down rain with (almost) nowhere to stay; though we had only biked 25 miles, we were still tired from yesterday’s ride.  We took the room, grumbled a little then went to see the city in between the downpours.

München is a most incredible city.  It would take a month to see it all well, a week maybe to scratch the surface.  We had a few hours in the rain, but made the most of it.  Lots of shops selling the traditional Bavarian costume.

And then you enter the old city/Allstadt.

Hundreds of thousands of people but more remarkable are the sights to behold.

This building was just fascinating.

Just look at this detail.

I could have looked at it for hours, but this man needs a beer

and he came to the right place,

The famous HofBrauHaus!

Lots of fun

and ready to serve.

Back to the sightseeing,

pictures are limited with the rain,

but we manage to shoot in between the showers.

We apologize that we cannot identify the pictures but our lack of understanding the German language and the rain hastening our every picture, this is all we can offer.

We did manage to get the name of St. Michaels Church,

absolutely breathtaking inside.

With the storm gathering black clouds

and a healthy ten minute walk back to our hotel, we regrettably leave the city center.

 

Day 21, Thursday, June 9 – Munchen/Munich to Augsburg, Germany

Saturday 11 June 2011

Rush hour in Munich!  Good thing we started with coffee this morning.  Actually, we biked the seven miles out of town like we knew what we were doing, weaving in and out of traffic like the locals; except we had really big bags on our bikes.

We tried to leave the dark clouds behind,

but the threat of rain…….let’s just say, it was going to happen, it was just a matter of time.

We ran out of bike signs and ended up crossing over a railroad track three times. Hoping to not hike the track a fourth time we stopped and consulted a map, that was offering very little assistance.  Asking someone walking by, arms loaded, if they spoke English.  Yes, Elfie did.
She laid her packages on the sideway and tried to show us on the map how to get back on track.  Realizing the map was not helping and we were not entirely understanding, she grabbed her bike and lead us to our path.

We wound through forests, fields and a few small towns,but the on and off light sprinkles we had prevented a lot of pictures.

We really do well when the road is straight and/or when the bike path signs are at intersections.  But if you miss just one, you can be wandering for miles.  Once again at an intersection with that confused look on our faces, peter, came to the rescue.

In the rain, he diverted his own course and led us four miles to the path along the river

that would take us into Augsberg.

Have we mentioned how fantasticly friendly the German people are?!?

Shortly before our destination, we came to an area used in the ’72 Olympics whitewater rafting competition.

As we were taking pictures, we struck up with a conversation with Rudolf and his wife,

out enjoying the afternoon on bikes.

A short pedal further and we reached our stop.  Augsburg is the second oldest city in Germany, beautiful buildings,

and interesting statues.

However, for as large as the city is and as much as it seemed to offer, there were not many people on the streets

A few more of the required tourist shots, then we must hunt down dinner.

And of course, one photo with flowers.

Gutte Nacht!

Day 22, Friday June 10 – Augsburg to Neuburg, Germany

Sunday 12 June 2011

Cool, no, cold today (maybe 50), but the rain showers from the evening were just tapering off as we went to breakfast.  Though the sky was still gray, there was no forecast for showers, so we headed out.
It was a great day, the cool weather is actually great for biking long,
once you get over the initial shock.
We followed the Lech River
out of town,
but saw very little of it after we left the city. We could have used some direction as the bike signs were once again absent.  We did manage to snap pictures,
enjoying the little towns along the way, like Gersthofen,
while studying the map.
Several times we did back and forths and made roundabouts where there were none, but we were making forward progress on flat terrain, so we didn’t fret (too much).  At one roundabout a local biked up and asked if we needed directions, guess we are really obvious when lost.  We commented on his excellent English; he’d spent ten years in an American prison camp (World War II), yet he was as kind and helpful as could be…………..!!
Biking along the fields and all of a sudden we see this.
Though we took a picture of the sign in front, so we could actually tell you what the place is, the only recognizable word is Mozart.

Castles
and abbeys,
this one is the Kloster Holzen Abbey dating 1698.
We stopped here for our picnic lunch and listened to the beautiful tower bells toll noon.
Still more churches
as we rode through small towns
and once again catch a glimpse of the Lech River.
Had a few brutal miles on a very rough bike trail, but managed to not shake anything loose.
Early in the afternoon, we stopped at a bike store to hopefully fix the same problem we have stopped for twice already this trip. It was a long stop, but hopefully we are fixed.
Back out into the beautiful countryside
and almost 48 miles done.  This is when we started to climb, and we were having such a nice time on flat terrain, apparently not meant to last.
Our last 5 miles took us over four serious hills, the last one a mile long.  Amazingly, we road directly to our hotel, hot shower and out to tour and catch our first glance at the Donau/Danube River.
Reached one thousand miles today and the Donau/Danube River,
we were happy.
The city of  Neuburg is beautiful,
with incredible architecture.

but still, very few people.
A quick ice cream and off to bed, after 54 miles, we were ready.

Day 23, Saturday, June 11 – Neuburg to Kelheim, Germany

Sunday 12 June 2011

It was raining when we woke, checked the weather to see if we should roll over or get ready to go.  Forecast showed clearing by 9 am, so we had a leisurely breakfast waiting for “the clearing”.  Though it didn’t actually clear, it did stop raining and the promise was for sunshine.  If every corner, every turn, didn’t promise new and wonderful sights, we might not have been so anxious to leave.  But with so much to see, we were eager to go, until our host greeted us with a way of his tail; Barry and Paige, this one’s for you.

Forest
and fields,
castles,
charming villages
and small streams,
even with the overcast skies and crisp 52 degree temperatures,
it was glorious, flat terrain included.
We stopped for lunch at a little cafe along the Rhein Danau;
both hoping for a hot bowl of soup but all the menu offered was pizza and pasta.  Normally, we would be ecstatic, but we were set on soup.  So the owner said no problem, two huge bowls of homemade tomato and pasta soup with bread (what we know as focaccia) the size of a small pizza.  Plus, a second dog fix for the day,
look at the size of this pooch.
We once again enjoyed biking along a dike
and the serene sights it had to offer.

Our bike path turned ugly, however; three and a half miles of very rough rocky trail having to stop and dismount in order to take pictures.

Then the path turned a corner and we were in Weltenburg, with a monastary dating back to 610 A.D.
A beautiful spot along the Rhein Danau with towering rocks on either side of the river.

Which is all nice and scenic until we realized we had to bike over one of them to get to our destination.  TWO miles straight up, not easy at the end of the day.  We did stop on the way up to check out the vista we were leaving behind.
A super fast fly down into town, quick check on the computer for our hotel and pulled right in.
We were staying right on the Rhein Danau Canal;
this town being the junction of the canal and river.  Once again, a quick shower and out to explore.
On the hill above our hotel sits the Liberation Hall of King Ludwig I,

great grandfather of (The) King Ludwig II.  Erected in commemoration of the wars of liberation from Napoleon (1813-1815).Again a beautiful town,
void of people.

All this biking and sightseeing makes one hungry, German fare tonight.  We know we’ve mentioned all the fabulous food we’ve been eating, but tonight was exceptional.  Venison (so tender you could cut it with a fork) with a burgundy sauce, homemade red cabbage, pear with fresh berry consume and spatzle.  Finished off by a treat from the kitchen.

Love this Place………time to waddle upstairs and go to bed.