Each year, as we complete the trip and do a follow-up on the blog, we are surprised at how dramatically different the “facts” are!  We still have not quite settled on a name for this trip: Three Rivers Tour, Northern Europe Tour or just our 2011 Bike Trip, nonetheless…….

Amsterdam to Amsterdam and the 8 Countries in between

2631 total miles

57 days total
includes 5 days of sightseeing, rest and a train ride.

50+ average miles a day

8 Countries:  Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, CzechRepublic

3 Rivers: Rhine, Danube and Elb

Almost 5000 pictures ………… and more fabulous memories than we can count!

We would very much like to thank:

ALL that commented on our blog, we very much enjoyed the contact from the states and especially the laughs.

Those we met along the way, that helped us find our way and the new friends we made.

Marcia, for making our flights affordable and much more comfortable.

Maine MacMan Dave, for the behind the scenes blog support.

My father, Dr. Noë, Vatti for the behind the scenes directions and history.

We Love You All and hope to see you on another bike tour soon…….Anyone care to join us?!

In true Netherland fashion, we bicycled directly from the airport to our hotel in Centre City Amsterdam.  Though our brains are a bit jet-lagged, we were able to snap a “guess where we are” photo.

as well as a “guess where we’ll be” photo

We will have more for you later.

Does this guy look like a tourist or what……….camera and all?

Sure Amsterdam has 37 museums,tall blondes (male and female) everywhere, lots of smokers, lots of bars, what seems like more canals than streets, but what is really amazing are all the bikes.

The respect for the bikes is amazing; a separate bike lane, even a separate light at crosswalks for walkers, bikes and cars. Rush hour takes on a whole new meaning with the pedalers on the street.  When the street light changes you look for bikes, cars and trolleys all poised to run you over.

The bicyclers, however, are the most intimidating; they’re quite, riding fast and talking on the cell phones. So sorry Robyn, no photos of museums, just bicycles, bicycles and more bicycles.

Notice the parking is for bikes (and mopeds), not cars, maybe not such a bad idea?

We did manage to see a bit more than bikes.

Miles of street market offering every kind of (legal) item you could ever want to purchase (and a lot you would never consider buying),

fruits and flowers

and lots of nuts!

Tomorrow we’ll see if we can get another picture or two that does not include a bicycle.

and you will find every type of hairdo on every shape and size wearing every fashion imaginable.  If you can dream it, you can probably find it walking the streets or in the gazillion stores in the center of the city.

Walking is easy and scenic

but your head will spin with the different characters to see,

from top to bottom.

There are beautiful parks around the city with miles of walking and biking trails,

beautiful architecture and incredible museums.

Though we walked by at least half the city’s famous museums, I was only allowed one to go in, so we went to The Van Gogh Museum.  If you are at all a museum fan, Amsterdam should be on the top of your list; experiencing the original works of art and learning a bit about the artists will leave you breathless and at the very least, speechless (so the museum trip was worth it for Jerry, too).

But we’ve played tourist for much longer than I thought possible, so tomorrow we Ride.

Hope to see you on the road.

The past two overcast days broke to a crisp, cool breeze and warm sunshine that made the 50 degree temperature very comfortable.  We didn’t get started until 9:30 as our breakfast companions had just arrived from Australia.  We compared notes on our planned trips down the River Rhine and then on to Budapest; of course they were going via cruise.

Biking, versus walking, gives you an entire different perspective on the town and a special appreciation for the ease in which the locals maneuver their bikes; poetry on wheels.  We managed to struggle through the intersections without getting run over or yelled at and find the safe bike paths.

We had not run into a language barrier until we started trying to read maps and street signs, we are sure we lost a lot in translation.  One gentleman even came out of his apartment to chat (and help with directions).  Hank had biked the United States coast to coast when he was 66; he still rides everyday at 80.

Once out of the city we biked a delightful bike trail along the Amsterdam canal. very similar to biking the C & O Canal outside of Washington DC, except this was paved.

and the cruise boat and barge traffic was substantial. The Amsterdam canal is one of the main thoroughfares that connect the commerce of the River Rhine and the North Sea.

By lunch time we’d only done 30 miles, somehow lost the canal but reached the town of Utrecht and almost the end of our navigational skills for the day.  But after some nourishment, caffeine, sugar and questions to a lot of different people, we were encouraged to press further.

We continued through the city to the River Lek.  This bike path took us through beautiful farms, green from the spring rains and filled with horses, cows and sheep.

We stopped at every road to make sure we were heading in the right direction.  It became frustrating that a runner kept passing us.  Jerry finally biked up beside him and they chatted for miles, think we succeeded in slowing him down a bit.

He did mention a town we MUST stay in, so we had a goal.  By 5 pm we reached the enchanting town of Dijk Bij Duurstede.  Like going back in time, which is very romantic if you have a hotel reservation; not so happy when you’ve biked almost 50 miles for the first time in two years.  Luckily, we found a room in the ONLY hotel in town.  A hot shower, deliciouso bowl of pasta and a stroll through the town center to watch the sun kiss the roof edge (at 9:30 pm)

then off to bed.

After breakfast, we walked around town, even sat on the hotel rooftop trying to find a good internet signal to post the blog, but when the church tower rang 10 am, Jerry said we had to go.

So we pedaled down brick-paved roads past the bakery, butcher shop and windmill to the bike path along Amsterdam canal.

Almost the entire ride today was on a nicely paved road that was lined for one car and generous bike lanes on either side.  Though there were a few cars from time to time, it was filled with bikes of all kinds enjoying the weekend’s beautiful weather.

The path was along the top of the dike, so we were afforded delightful views of the little towns with tidy homes and perfect yards

and beautiful churches.

At two o’clock we took a break to make a plan for the rest of the day.  With a 24 oz beer down the hatch,

we decided to take the small trek across the bridge, find a place to stay and enjoy the oldest city in the Netherlands, Nijmegen.

As we checked into Hotel Courage, directly on the River Waal, we learned of the historic bicycle museum that adjoined our hotel.  Though quite small, it had dozens of bikes dating as back as far to the early 1800′s, looks pretty comfy, hmm?

After our quick history lesson, we strolled the waterfront enjoying the constant traffic on the river and the sites and foods from the riverside restaurants.

We enjoyed a couple delicously fresh dinners at La Pasta and some very entertaining conversation with the owner, Mike.  We are still trying to get used to the sun being high in the sky at 9 pm; so we slowly strolled back to the hotel and called it a night.

It would have been a lovely town to spend the morning, but with our short ride yesterday, we were both ready to ride.

Once again, as the church bell tolled 10 am, we rode out of town during a break in the showers.

Actually, the break in showers turned into a beautiful day.  In a word, a Magnificent morning ride.

We were not the only ones enjoying a Sunday morning ride.

With the bike path like this, you can’t but help wanting to ride, everyday.  At some point during all the beautiful countryside, we unceremoniously crossed the German border, though we cannot tell you exactly where.

A shout goes out to Klaas, whom we met last evening and blew by us today on his 100 kilometer ride (sorry we couldn’t join you).

A side note from yesterday, and probably again during our travels:  we are actually traveling UP the River Rhine.  Which gives us a certain amount of satisfaction when we pass the river barges as they struggle UP river.  So if we again mention, down the river, we have not changed directions (yet) just a mistake!

I was informed today, however, if we don’t do 50 miles a day, we’ll not make it to Istanbul this year.  So either we’re not making it to Istanbul, or we’re not making it home this year.

We crossed the longest bridge in Germany (3/4 mile)

into Emmerich am Rhine, the most destroyed (bombed) German city during World War II.  The town seems to have recovered beautifully as we biked over brick paved roads and past beautiful old churches on our way out of town down along a dedicated bike path.

After about an hour with the wind at our back and feeling good, we decided to go the more scenic route.  So we took a turn into the town of Rees.

Though there was a huge street party, we managed to get out of town unscathed.  Probably should have stayed for the party as we somehow strayed way off course.  It was satisfying though, that the sport car road rally followed us down our wayward road.  As the road turned to dirt, everyone realized a backtrack was necessary.

Back on track, we still had another 15 miles to town.   Though the wind had gotten very gusty and the sky threatened rain,

the day was still fabulous.

By 5:00 we made our destination town, Wesel,  a quick beer

and a hotel by 6:00.  We had talked about having a traditional German dinner and didn’t have to walk far.  The first restaurant we came to,

Galland Restaurant was all German food, all German menu, all German waiters and no English spoken, except us.  We managed to order the two things we almost recognized and were not disappointed.  The restaurant treated us to an after dinner aperitif to put a perfect finish on a perfect meal and day!

And though there was a mix of every kind of road/path surface today as we pedaled south UP the Rhein we were still afforded pretty fields of poppies,

old stone churches

and precious little lambs.

The river and tributaries are very low, due to lack of rain, but the swans

seem perfectly happy. In fairness, though, we must point out that most of the ride today was through industrial areas

but it was still a pretty ride, except for that blasted head wind.

We took several detours today, trying to find our way.  Since so many people bike here, EVERY path is a bike path; finding the one WE are supposed to be on has proven to be difficult.  Though we brought a book/map with us for this intended course, it has not been terrible helpful.

We finally found someone that spoke English AND knew the way into town.  He directed us across the river for a scenic

and quite ride through farm fields and by small villages.  Small villages just outside Dusseldorf were very enchanting

and almost lured us to stay. But we made it to Dusseldorf, Germany’s richest city.

We strolled the streets and watched WAY too expensive cars enjoy the afternoon drive.  Another Italian dinner, it’s the only thing we seem to understand on a menu, and in for the night.

One Note:  since there are a LOT of pictures on today’s post, you can see them all larger  by clicking on one and follow the arrow on the right….Enjoy!
First, we would return to the Hotel Cascade in Düsseldorf if for no other reason than the breakfast.  When we checked in last night, the clerk mentioned they had a ‘very good breakfast’ – they have an Incredible breakfast and beautiful room with windows to the garden.

Besides the usual abundant fare of meats, cheeses and breads, there were several different homemade jams, caprese, eggs, bacon and sausage, several fruits, yogurts (several varieties).  One cannot eat all the choices in one sitting – and I’m not a breakfast person……just incredible.
Okay, then we venture out into an overcast, cold, windy day that could not be more perfect.  The wind we faced yesterday in our face, had turned quite blustery, but it was now at our back – it was a glorious day.  By all estimations we had a 70 kilometer ride ahead of us which was very unfortunate given our very late start.  We’ll skip the excuses, but we were advised by our German tour guide (insert a big fancy word that neither or us can remember) but our dear Vatti recommended we visit the  Konigs Alee Strasse before we left Dusseldorf.  O.M.G. Rodeo Drive has NOTHING on this place.

Everything you could possibly want to buy, that costs WAY more than we could possibly afford, could be found here.  The only actual shopping we did was for our computer and imagine the grumps we found.

We had to get some money exchanged so we stopped at a couple of banks.  The first could not help, so they sent us to Deutshe Bank.  I felt like the little children in Mary Poppins going into their father’s bank, it was massive and incredible.  Luckily, I was not chased out and was able to complete my transaction, but the experience was worth whatever the outcome.

Dusseldorf also has some incredible architecture, old and new;  you could spend a week in this town and not do or see it all.

Somehow, with the wind at your back the trails become better.  In reality, we really did have beautiful paths along the Rhein.

Shortly before our destination we came into a very industrial area that didn’t register on our maps, nor were there good bike signs.   As we sat trying to figure out which way to go, a biker rides by and somehow, Jerry assumed that we should follow the gentleman.  He rides up beside him and starts asking directions; rather hysterical, Jerry speaking German (in English) to a German that speaks NO English.

It was an Excellent decision, though.  He lead us through areas that would have taken us hours to navigate, the most of which was a Ford plant so large it had three individual train stops.  About the time the gentlemen got us into town, a beautiful young lady, Alex (who does speak English), lead us into town and gave us the ‘where we were’ story.

Stopping at tourist information, we were informed there was a HUGE “fair” in town and rooms were scarce.  Luckily, we found one, right on the Rhein

with outside restaurants and cafes everywhere.

We quickly checked in as we had to see the Köln Dom/Cologne Cathedral before it got too late.  To learn more about this Cathedral that began construction in 1248 AD Click Here, incredible history.

On our stroll back to the hotel, we soon discovered what ‘fair” was in town……..a Wein Fair……..that means WINE in English……..and it lasts for 10 days, TODAY being the first day.  Wine and food and people enjoying themselves everywhere,

MOST incredible.

So if our Spot tracker does not change for several days, you will know why.  The following are just a few of the pictures to capture our evening before we finally tore ourselves away to go to bed.

The BEST red wine either of us have ever had; and we may hit the vineyard on our way south.

Can’t say das kinder were enjoying the wine festival, but the parents certainly knew how to keep them entertained.

Gutte Nacht!

We’ll keep the wording brief and just fill in with photos of our trip south on the River Rhein

through small villages, beautiful churches, fabulous bike paths.

The contrast of new and old is striking.

Thoroughly enjoyable and peaceful ride!

We passed Bonn, the capital city of Germany.  Though our path did not lead us through the middle of the city, we were able to catch a glimpse of the German parliament building.

Just south of Bonn is the enchanting town of Bad Honnef, a place of very special memories for me with my family as a very young girl.  We spent an hour or two in town, taking pictures of the little chapel where my parents were engaged,

and the Drachenfels (the castle ruins at the top of the hill), I think a dragon was slayed there, but vague on the details.

But the day was still young and the weather too wonderful to stop, so we continued on.

We passed by through Ramegen; the Remagen Bridge was one of the major crossing points over the Rhein by the U.S. forces in WW II.  The remnants (I believe) are in the picture above on the left.

We decided to go one town further to Kripp, smaller scale and quieter and a beautiful view of Linz across the water.  We dined on Jägerschnitzel and Gorgonzolaschnitzel; Jerry and I will look like good healthy Germans by the time we get out of this country.