Inverness to Plockton, Scotland

310 Miles

1 Day with Rain

The sun and clouds were having a merry game of tug of war, the wind committed to be in our face as we loaded our bikes in the cool 55°.  We knew we would have a climb as we left this morning, but a seven mile uphill without having warmed up the legs, was just not funny.  After our seven mile leg assault the road changed to climbs and drops, allowing a rest after each climb.  We had a ferry to catch, so what the topography did to make our ride today easier, the deadline erased; it was a two hour wait if we missed it. Crossed the very tall bridge,over the Inner Sound,that leads to the Atlantic Ocean  The drop off the brigde landed us on the Isle of Skye, where the scenery continued to impress. With deadline in mind, we pedaled hard into the wind up and down the hills, past fields, lochs and little villages.

The clouds were threatening, bands of rain would pass, touching us only with a sprinkle.  A couple little climbs at the end to make it interesting, but we finally reached the ferry stopwith an hour to spare, perfect time for lunch.  The lunch was good and the rest refreshing, as we enjoyed watching the rain in the distance.The ferry ride gave us just enough time to realize how tall the hills on this side of the water were,the ones we would have to climb.  All forgotten, as we reached the town nestled in the cove where the boat landed. We had four miles of blissfully flat road in beautiful sunshine without wind; it was as if we had been taken to a different land rather than just a 20 minute ferry ride; a land complete with a coal powered train.  The mid-day rest had helped and we would need it as the hills became longer, but equally matched with fly-downs.  We missed photographing several of the most incredible sights, that invariably appear on the downhill, just as the speed is picking up.  Another shower caught us before we made it to our hotel.There is nothing around for miles, but our hotel had a restaurant and a place to plan the next day’s course.We dined to live bagpipe music that the entire community showed up to listen to.  A little nightcap, then bed.

The area we have biked in the last three days is just spectacular; if you are looking for a great place to hike, bike, sightsee, relax – this is your spot!

Forget the nonsense about weather and climbing conditions…..THIS was our morning;

the first half an hour, anyway.  It was a captivating morning with the clouds holding tight to the mountains, while the crisp morning air kept us cool in the sunshine.  The waterfalls were running strong; only wish we could capture the sound in the pictures.  The morning was incredible, surrounded by huge mountains and the only sound was that of the streams refreshed from last night’s rain.  Many, many more pictures are below.

Then the climbing began, but it was not without it’s rewards,incredible hills reflecting in the still loch.After climbing for over an hour, we had a wonderful drop.  Somewhere along that drop we flew by the Glenfinnan Church, Unfortunately, we had to take this photo off the web; what we saw with the clouds and hills in the distance was far more incredible…..could not brake fast enough.  The scenery was just as incredible at the bottom of our drop.  For miles we were captivated by the tremendous mountain in front of us.Apparently we were fortunate to see the top of Ben Nevis, Great Britan’s tallest mountain (4409 feet); many travel to see it shrouded in clouds.  As we approached Fort William at the base of the mountain, we were treated to a canal pathalong the locks.With a shorter ride today, we had time for a real lunch,once again serenaded by bagpipes.During our leisurely lunch, the wind (in our face) had time to gather as we biked the three miles out of town past numerous bed and breakfasts along the water.  Our last 20 miles was along a very busy and narrow dual carriageway.  An occasional photo along the way proved worthwhile.

Our Inn was another nice surprise, surrounded by beautiful gardens

and positioned along the shore of Loch Linnhe that leads to the Atlantic.  Within a couple of hours, our beautiful sunny skies had started to turn.“According to the forecast”, this was the last sunny day we will have in a week….and we thoroughly enjoyed it AND celebrated it with dinner and wine!After all, it’s a long ride tomorrow in the cold and rain.

Wind was howling and the bands of rain covered the hills and that it just what we saw through our bedroom window.  We managed to load our bikes and pedal a couple of miles to the bridgebefore the first wave of rain hit.  It was a quick shower, made cold by the driving wind.  As we traveled along the Loch Linnhe, we watched the sun and rain rush by on the other shore. After seven miles, we connected with a bike path, getting off the busy road, plus shielding us from the wind.  Rolled up and down minimal hills, our tired legs feeling every pedal push.  Rainbows were making sno-cones out of the top of the rounded hills.  Though the temperatures remained in the mid-50’s, we had very little rain, so it was a much more enjoyable ride than expected.  We passed many coves, filled with sailboats and a castle dating back to 1320.The ride this morning was beautiful, even in the overcast skies.Our route had us on the edge of the Loch and over narrow bridges.

Three miles before lunch, tired and hungry having already put four hours in the saddle, we came to this sign.

 This sign was not kidding; our legs screamed their displeasure but got us up the (at least) 20% grades and into the city of Oban.Lunch was delicious and a good break.  After lunch, we only had 15 miles left, little did we know it would be by far, our toughest.  Just getting out of town was a climb, which did not stop for a couple of miles, taking us into the countryside.Up and down hills, none of them shorter than two miles and most of them longer, the incredible scenery did little to comfort the fatigue.  Even after the fortifying lunch, we were spent.  Just before four, we dropped down a wonderful hill to our hamlet for the evening.It was not long before we found ourselves “refreshed”refortified
and properly stuffed.Amazing what 56 miles and six hours in the saddle will do to your appetite.  We had expected a miserable and tough ride, today, but without the rain and wind in our face, it was just Tough!

The rustle of the wind was deafening this morning as we walked out to load our bikes.  We were comforted to quickly realize it was the stream that had grown with the continuous showers last night, though the wind was swaying the treetops.  There is a peaceful allurement to the freshly watered fields in the morning, especially viewed in our current dry conditions.  We had been warned of the very steep climb   at about five miles, so we were feeling rather strong at seven miles when we descended to a pretty cove.  A turn in the road revealed the we had yet to begin to climb;the mountain was just ahead.  It was a spectacularly marvelous and equally tenacious three mile climb with a slight push over the top from the wind.A great vantage point of the cove below.The climb was matched by an awesome 3 mile flydown and a quick up to the Kilmartin Castle and cafe.  It was not as if we needed any sweets after just a three mile climband only completing 14 miles, but we had some anyway.  A quick downhill from the small village and then miles of blissfully flat road along Loch Fyne Inlet.As threatening as the sky was, we only experienced a sprinkle or two.  Entranced by each little cove,the remarkable low tides and ecstatic with the flat road.  Once again enjoying ourselves and taking frivolous photos.One more little climb before dropping into the historic seaside town of Tarbert. The town borders Scotland’s oldest natural harbor and climbs from there, topped by 13th century Tarbert Castle (built by Robert the Bruce) on one hill and the Tarbert Church of Scotland on the other end of town.This close to the ocean, requires seafood for dinner; Seafood Pie and Penne with Prawns.Perfect to replenish and prepare for our ride tomorrow.

We shivered against the cold, damp wind and wondered how we could endure another day like this.  One mile into our ride, as we climbed our first hill, all was forgotten, unzipping as fast as we could to cool off. The up and down went on for miles, the dark clouds only throwing mist our way.  On one particularly long down (after a long up) a cold drizzle was threatening to have us shivering again.  At the bottom, the first civilization we had seen since leaving our B & B was a gas station/market serving soothing hot chocolate.  By the time we pedaled away, the sun was beginning to show and the 55° temperatures had warmed up ten degrees.

Out of the hills and down to the relatively flat road along the west coast of this peninsula, we experienced fully the prevailing southeast winds.  Thankfully, the winds were only about 10 mph, so not debilitating, just draining over time.  This coastline was gorgeous, the sun that occasional broke free of the clouds, reflecting Caribbean blue in the waters.Everything wild was blossoming from the water, be it showers or sea.Though the scenery remained brilliant, the warm air and flat road did not.Sometime after noon, we stopped for lunch in a pretty cove with a white sandy beach.  Though we enjoyed the vista, the only restaurant in our entire stretch today, was closed.  As we climbed to the middle of the peninsula, over to the east side, the rocks we had enjoyed along the coastline grew larger and coupled with grass fields created a spectacular landscape.

One last climb before dropping into another scenic harbor town.  With rain threatening, we sped through town happy to be able to check in before the rain hit, but after we climbed the short but very steep hill to the hotel.Having missed lunch, it did not take us long to pedal back into town for a little snack before dinner. We had planned to take the ferry to Northern Ireland tomorrow, but had not planned on the ferry being booked.  So tomorrow we’ll take a day off show you this pretty harbor town.

Note:  Below the photo gallery of each day is a comments section (that you are welcome to add); if you are missing it, you are missing an occasional hysterical commentary by Mike K.  aka Cecil O’Toole.

It was a gorgeous morning, especially for sleeping in and and enjoying a leisurely breakfast.  But the sunshine was beckoning us into town for a look around.  The ferry company had promised to contact us by ten, if we could make today’s boat, so at 10:15 we headed out to do some much needed laundry and a look about.With a quick swing by the ferry office to pick up tomorrow’s tickets, we learned we were booked on the ferry that left in less than an hour.  Chaos ensued!  A panicked bike back to the hotel, everything thrown into bags, including wet, but very clean, clothes and a return to the dock with enough time to spare to take a few shots of the small town…..and then we were off to Northern Ireland.

It could not have been a more beautiful day to cross the sometime unruly channel between the Atlantic Ocean and Irish Sea.  Not only were we happy to have made the ferry a day earlier, but also happy to miss Sunday’s prediction of gail force winds.  Leaving the shores of Scotland and entering Northern Ireland, we were struck by how similar their “bluffs” were to The Brac.   As we docked in yet another seaside town, we immediately noticed a fish n’ chips place.  Duckies were hungry from the crossing and were not going any further until fed. A few blocks away, we checked in.  Though it was officially a day off, we actually logged over six miles with the morning errand running.  With an afternoon off, we strolled into town just as the shops were closing.  Lost Jerry in the first pub we came to, so a quick walk about town and I soon realized he was in the best place in town.  With one Guinness down, it was time for a snack; we enjoyed a huge plate of (brown) crab claws perfectly cooked and seasoned with garlic and butter.  More beer, wine and then a seafood pasta dinner to die for plus, great entertainment.We threatened to stay in Ballycastle for a week, or the rest of the trip!  We left with head attached, but a stroll to the seaside was a must and a great choice.  The bluff and beach we had seen on the entry, was beautifully lit by the evening sun.  Many had gathered by the seaside for the beautiful evening, but guided by the birds,  we headed for our B & B.