Day 8. Saturday, July 18 – Billings to Hardin, Montana

Saturday 18 July 2015

It was 62° with a cool northwest wind, when we finally left the comforts of our hotel.  A quick navigation through town,DSCN3782over the Yellowstone River DSCN3785and we were in the middle of the country.DSCN3791Small farms were scattered about.DSCN3795

Even with the nice tailwind, we slowly crawled up the mountain.DSCN3807  Wide switchbacks and our 1,000 foot higher vantage point offered gorgeous viewsDSCN3805 and a shot back to town.DSCN3801  Many more rocks DSCN3826and a lot less treesDSCN3819 on our long downhill run.  Around a bend,DSCN3820 stark trees told the story of a bad fire years ago, though brush had began to bring green back to the hills.DSCN3815We had another smaller climb that dropped us by a thriving farmDSCN3828 and only our second cornfield since our start (Marck, this one’s for you).IMG_0269On our first straight stretch, we met Don and his kids, Anders and Julia from ChicagoDSCN3832 and their friends Mark and Pat from Glendive, MontanaDSCN3833heading to Portland, Oregon.

This straight stretch of road went on forever, again revealing a beautiful soft palette of field grassDSCN3838and beautiful sky.IMG_0271  Prairie dogsIMG_0273 greeted us for miles, as we biked along our long road.  We saw no people, one ranchIMG_0274lots of wide open spaceDSCN3849 and ample wild life.IMG_0279It was an absolutelyDSCN3866 beautifulDSCN3873 rideIMG_0291in the middle of nowhere,DSCN3880 made that much more enjoyable with our cool northwest tailwind; but still lots and lots of nothing out here!

Twelve miles from town our flat ride became a little more rollingDSCN3892 and signs of civilization once again returned.DSCN3893Our stop for the night was a straight shot into town.DSCN3897A few hours rest and then a bike into town for dinner.  Oddly enough, it took us a while to find a place in this two block town, but what a find.  Yes, the Greek salad is Really this bigDSCN3903 and the pizzaDSCN3907 can easily compete with Reginos.  It was a wonderful find!

Though this is the lowest altitude (2900 feet) we have been in since arriving in Montana, think we’ve finally adjusted to the thinner air; not so much to the climbing, however.

Fifty three miles done….Good Night!  One last thought(s) for the night….DSCN3900

 

Day 9. Sunday, July 19 – Hardin, Montana to Ranchester, Wyoming

Sunday 19 July 2015

Fifty seven degrees and sunny when we pushed away just after seven this morning, with a nice breeze coming out of the south; unfortunately, we were heading south; it was going to be a long day in the saddle; maybe a wagon train isn’t such a bad idea.DSCN3912  Picked up our frontage road just out of town, sandwiched tightly between the interstate and railroad.  This would be the day of few pictures, as we were blocked from anything to see by traffic lanes.  We crossed the Big Horn River,DSCN3917lost our pavement for a bitDSCN3923then made a quick switch to the other side of the interstate, which afforded us better views DSCN3925and took us by a very sobering monument.DSCN3929  The Apsaalooke Veterans Park tells the grim story of an Indian heritage lost.DSCN3931  Shortly down the road was the Battle at Big Horn Museum.DSCN3944

DSCN3945  It was a good time to take a break from the wind, soak in more historyIMG_0295 and get refreshment at the last food stop before the end of our ride.  Shortly before ten, our road and the railroad unexpectantly split from the highway; DSCN3956the quiet and sceneryDSCN3961 returned!  This slight turn in the road also served to put the wind just off our right, so the onslaught was slightly tempered; perfect, since the wind had turned up a notch.  We were able to relax slightly and take in the vistas.DSCN3974

It was almost noon and we were suffering from the continuous uphill and battle against the wind.  Almost like a mirage, we saw a grocery store through the trees.DSCN3975  It was a wonderful break for food and cold drink.  Sorry we did not take a picture of the incredible fresh fruit bowl of raspberries, strawberries, bananas and blueberries, but it was consumed too fast to focus.  Leaving from this stop, our course turned a bit more to put the wind just at our shoulder.  With no trees to break the wind, the slight turn was what we needed in order to continue; even the occasional train DSCN3982was welcomed for it’s wind buffering effect.  Our usual afternoon cloud cover did not happen; shade was sought after by all.DSCN3989

At 50 miles, we found a lone treeDSCN3992 to take refuge under to enjoy an orange before the gradual climb became much more noticeable.DSCN4002We enjoyed the quick down only to climb again relishing the idea of the next drop that took miles to come.DSCN4010We were jazzed to cross the border and enter a new state,IMG_0312the rain on the distant Big Horn Mountains looking very refreshing.IMG_0318Once again we were saved by an honest to goodness old time bar,IMG_0328proof;IMG_0327not sure we would have made it our last ten miles without it.  Finally we reached our downhill and wind so strong that on the flat road, we were doing 22 mph without pedaling; the wind was howling.  We were still exhausted.  After almost 7 hours in the saddle and 73 miles, we were hungry.  DSCN4018 Fried pickles, salad and DSCN4024Chicken Fried Chicken (with gravy) was just the ticket!  On our walk back from dinner, the wind had completely died.

Bedtime!

Day 10. Monday, July 20 – Ranchester to The Ranch at Ucross, Wyoming

Tuesday 21 July 2015

Sorry, this is a Long post with too many pictures, today!

A beautiful, sunny 64° this morning with no wind.DSCN4029  It was a wonderful start to the day as we biked away from our little town and out into the country.  The flat frontage road this morning was elevated from the railroad,DSCN4032 so views abound.DSCN4037  After seven miles, we crossed the interstate to pick up our course on the other side. IMG_0347Though scenic,DSCN4045 it was much hillier than our other frontage road and turned to dirt two miles out.  We had to decide to continue on dirt or turn back and ride the interstate.  Not knowing if the flat packed road would deteriorate, we backtracked.DSCN4047  The six mile stretch on the highway was quieter than some of the roads we’d already traveled and the wide shoulder made it comfortable (safe).

We pedaled through the historic town of Sheridan; with plenty places for the tourist to shopDSCN4061 and the cowboy to wet his whistle.  We spent far too much time in this cute town,DSCN4062 but did manage to gather food supplies for the next day’s ride and grab an early lunch.  When we finally pulled out of town it was really beginning to warm up and there was a breeze coming out of the southeast.  This is when the climbing began, too!DSCN4063  We snaked and climbed,DSCN4071 climbed and snakedDSCN4100 our way around the hillsDSCN4067 in the stupendouslyIMG_0354 beautiful valley.DSCN4102With all the climbing, it didn’t “seem” like a valley to us, but that is what the locals call it.  Wildlife abound, can you spot the two deer?IMG_0376Here’s a hint.IMG_0378The snow capped Big Horn Mountains were majesticIMG_0357 on the western horizon.   By 1:00 it was 100° in the full sun; we relished the breeze in our face, just for it’s cooling effect and tried to distract ourselves with the lush landscape.DSCN4138  We could have used some of this horse power DSCN4093as we slowly climbed to 4800 feet.  After 18 miles, we were blessed with a cooling albeit short downhill then a flat rideDSCN4145 along the Tongue RiverIMG_0395 to our stop – the only place to stay in a over 100 miles.  And what a treat after our hard fought 50 mile day.IMG_0397  The Ranch at Ucross is a beautiful cowboy oasis with the purr-fect hostess! DSCN4162Meet Evil or as LynnBug would say, E-Val.

We tied up our steeds up to our cabin for the nightDSCN4218 and relaxed like cowboys after a hard day’s work.  When the dinner bell rang (literally), we were ready.  Well fedDSCN4188(Trout Almondine and London Broil) and with proper nightcap,DSCN4194 we retired for a long night’s sleep….tomorrow will be a day off!

Day 11. Tuesday, July 21 – Day Off on The Ranch at Ucross

Tuesday 21 July 2015

We know, only ten days riding and a day off…..Slackers.  But between the hills, heat and elevation our bodies need the rest….that is our story and we are sticking to it!

Interesting fact: The entire state of Wyoming has less people (500,000) than the City of Virginia Beach!

Perfect day to take off and enjoy the scenery with the breeze rustling the leaves of the tall trees.DSCN4207  Now if we were on the bike, we would note it as a 20 mph wind in our face, Perfect day to take off.  Being in the middle of nowhereDSCN4208 with no T.V. has it’s advantages, when your goal is to rest.  The ranchDSCN4209 does offer a lot of outdoor activities; fishing,DSCN4185 hiking,DSCN4224 swimming, horseback riding, etc.  As much as the idea of a horseback ride across a river and through the hills was Very appealing,DSCN4211 it would do the legs no good.  We did manage a close game of horseshoes, though. DSCN4227 After happy hour (dinner bell doesn’t ring until 7:00), we watched the horses enjoying the sprinkling system DSCN4179while Jerry worked on his, “So a horse walks into a bar…..” joke.DSCN4171 - Version 2  It went over pretty well with the audience…DSCN4174….falling down laughing!

Dinner was RibeyeDSCN4245 or Salmon SteakDSCN4246 finished with Key Lime Torte.DSCN4248  But the best part was our genuine cowboy, Pete,DSCN4251 who told us (a wink in his eye) as he served, “I just finished installing a toilet, but I did wash my hands.”  I want to take him and Evil home with me!  Tomorrow, we ride.

Day 12. Wednesday, July 22 – The Ranch at Ucross to Gillette, Wyoming

Thursday 23 July 2015

Tough to pull away from the beautiful ranchDSCN4267 this morning, but we had a long day ahead and needed to get underway.  Our pedal through “town” was dreadful,DSCN4269 considering the rush hour of this populous.

We enjoyed the clear, crisp morning as we pedaled past beautiful ranches.DSCN4272  It took only an hour for the temperatures to rise 20 degrees from our 54° start, but the air remained cool.  We followedIMG_0404 Clear Creek for a few miles,DSCN4290past large farms;DSCN4302 crossed the Powder RiverDSCN4322 and the lush green from our first day in Wyoming was gone; stark barren hills was all we could see.DSCN4324  The deer and antelope (photo hams) still remained and almost outnumbered the cattle.IMG_0416  We did startle one family that took off running; it was amazing to watch their graceful speed as they put distance between us.  The first 20 miles was a delightful ride,IMG_0414 flat to almost downhill and still cool.  Then the rolling hills began, almost in stair-step fashion, never really a downhill, just more climbing.DSCN4334  Ran across (not over) our first Live Rattlesnake;IMG_0422 we hoped it was not an omen for the day.  We crept along, trying to find the beauty in our surroundings DSCN4327as the thermometer climbed quickly.  At the halfway mark, we stopped for lunch at the Only place available between here and there.IMG_0440  These two were friendlier and more accommodating DSCN4339than the proprietors; guess that’s what happens when you know you are the only game in town.  As much as we were enjoying the air conditioning, we could not linger.

By 1:00, the temperature gauge was in triple digits, an hour later it was 116°.  The temperature was climbing faster than we were.  We longed for cloud cover or shade. DSCN4360 In the distance, we saw a grouping of trees and pedaled for the shade we could rest in, this is what it was once we got there…DSCN4356…pretty much the way we felt, too.  Stopping to rest was useless in the searing heat of the sun, any breeze was created by our movement.  We were struggling; the heat was intense and it was sucking out every bit of energy we had.  Our feet screamed to be released from the shoes that keep them locked to the bike.  Our last six miles was dreadful.  Industry filled the landscapeDSCN4369 and trucks roared by tweaking our frayed nerves.  Ten and a half hours after leaving, we turned into our hotel, happy to have survived, albeit barely.  We were beyond exhausted and not the least bit hungry, but knew we needed the energy that food would (hopefully) provide.  Stumbled across the street to the nearest restaurant,DSCN4372 food DSCN4376and drink (a margarita is hydrating, right?) slowly bringing us back to life.  It was the Best Mexican food we’d ever had.  Just under 82 miles, we were done!

Day 13. Thursday, July 23 – Gillette to Sundance, Wyoming

Thursday 23 July 2015

Wish we had this three wheeler yesterday; DSCN4379thinking maybe this will be our next touring vehicle.

Ten minutes earlier and ten degrees warmer, when we pulled away from the wonderfully comfortable bed of our hotel.  We felt remarkably refreshed considering the beating we took yesterday.  Gillette, Energy Capital of the Nation, is a quirky town.  Where else would you find a “Rock Pile Museum” and rock/paper/scissors sculpture!DSCN4381  Within two miles, we hit road construction DSCN4389that once again had us on a dirt road.DSCN4390  But most traffic had avoided this stretch because of it, so we had the road almost to ourselves.DSCN4391  It was certainly not a particularly pretty ride, muddy fieldsDSCN4405 a huge electrical plant, an oil fieldDSCN4402 and large rail switching station, but infinitely more enjoyable on the flat road with a nice southwest wind.DSCN4395

Shortly before ten a.m. with 30 miles complete, we ran out of our flat road and climbed a steep hill into Moorcroft.  Though still satisfied from breakfast, we stopped for a rest and a bit of sugar; once again, our one and only available stop for the day.  We knew the second half was filled with climbing, with the worst two climbs at the end; so we left the hillier country road behind and opted for the interstate.IMG_0464  We knew it would be less scenic, but we had not seen much on our earlier stretch, so did not think we would miss much. DSCN4414 The landscape was surprisingly prettyDSCN4415 and we were fortunate to find shade in several spotsDSCN4417 and took advantage of each one.DSCN4439  Though the temperatures had climbed to over 100° by noon, the shade felt like air conditioning.  The rolling hills started off mild,DSCN4419the Black Hills coming into view on the horizon and Devils Tower/Bear LodgeIMG_0467 in the distance.  Around a bend in the road,DSCN4427 trees and stunning green returned;DSCN4432 a refreshingDSCN4438 and instant contrast from the past 100 miles.DSCN4433   The scenic distractionDSCN4453 helped with our two tough climbs in the last ten miles;DSCN4447 the last one to 5089 feet.  A four mile no pedaling downhill DSCN4462into the town of Sundance of Sundance Kid fame,  Arriving before check-in time and with a restaurant across the street, we enjoyed a late lunch.

The sky on our walk to dinner, was very bizarre;DSCN4467 thankfully after our leisurely dining, the sky had cleared completely.  We strolled past a very sobering War Memorial to the veterans of Crook County.DSCN4474  This area contributed many souls to every war in recent history.

Sorry for the sober finish to a beautiful day, but we should never forget the scarifies our soldiers made for us, All of us!

Day 14. Friday, July 24 – Sundance, Wyoming to Deadwood, South Dakota

Friday 24 July 2015

It was a beautiful 70° morningDSCN4482 as we pedaled through the countrysideDSCN4489 on very gently rolling hills; for once, more down than up.DSCN4498  By the time we pedaled into the one block town of Beulah,DSCN4521 we had dropped 1500 feet; our complacency ended abruptly with a steep, albeit short, climb.  We had pedaled 19 miles by 9:00 a.m., a nice pace we would not maintain.  The up/down rolling became more consistentDSCN4530 as the beautiful scenery continued.DSCN4535Jerry adopted a friend, Butch Cassidy (BC for short),IMG_0511 who enjoyed a couple mile free ride.  Two hours later we rolled through the quiet end of Spearfish, DSCN4542home to Black Hills State University.  Trees lined the road and homes were neatly kept.DSCN4547  Stopped for an early and leisurely lunch before heading into the hills!  The other side of town was much busier being close to the interstate.  We thought for a good laugh, about jumping on the highway and biking into Strugis (only 17 miles away) for the “biker” rally next week, but decided to continue on our course.DSCN4553   Though our road looked flat and sometimes downhill,DSCN4569 it was far from it; just getting out of town was a climb that would not stop.DSCN4558  It was slow progress on a busy road,DSCN4562 but the scenery was lush and the sky beautiful. DSCN4574 With many stops to catch our breath, it took us two hours to go 13 miles and climb to 4870 feet.  We were ready to fly down and had just gotten up speed when around the corner traffic had come to a stop.DSCN4583  Turns out the town was throwing a paradeDSCN4601 for our arrival and we were late;DSCN4592  check out Butch Cassidy.DSCN4588It was perfect, the roads were closed to vehicles,IMG_0533 so we slid past everyone and enjoyed the parade.IMG_0531Our drop from the top had been so quick, it not until our walk around town before dinner, that we realized how immensely high Every hill around us was…DSCN4617…note the steps.  And then,DSCN4618 look at the homes on the hills behind the town; we were doomed, tomorrow.  But in the meantime, we were going to enjoy the town.  First stop was a classicDSCN4629 cowboy bar,DSCN4627 that we ducked into just before the rain came down (“it never rains in July”).  DSCN4624 A little further down the road, the sherif was doing his best to prevent the gunfightDSCN4634 that was sure to happen.  But the best part of the evening was an amazing pheasant pasta with sundried tomatoes.DSCN4640  It was worth the arduous 49 mile bike to get here; but next time, we will have it delivered.