Day 13. Wednesday, July 3 – Libby to Koocanusa, Montana

Thursday 4 July 2013

The ride out of Libby this morning was filled with whimsical moments (that’s a giant fishing pole over the creek),cool air, bright sunshine and a beautiful stream.

We left behind the snow capped Cabinet Mountains; happy to not be climbing 7000 foot mountains today….soon come!
We had an option on the first half of the ride to take the highway or a back country road.  Though these “alternative” routes inevitably require more climbing, there is much less traffic, lots of cool shadeand an occasional rough patch of road. Once again we could hear the birds, talk to the chipmunks and watch the deer grazing by the side of the road.  Our rolling hills gave us ample opportunity to see the Koocanusa River from nice heights and at eye level.
Halfway through the ride, our course took us back to the highway; we were not looking forward to the noise we had yesterday afternoon.  Surprisingly, we had very little traffic plus beautiful views.
Stopped at the Libby Dam, completed in 1971, amazed by massive structure, as well as the sound of the water that rushes through it.We enjoy the mini-rest and views.
Reached our destination before noon. Once again, we are not in or near any town, just a campground on a deserted road between Libby and Eureka.  The Koocanusa Resort(?) and Marina stop is only twenty seven (hilly) miles for the day but that beats 75 miles in one day.  We opted for a cabin instead of camping, not luxurious, but a comfortable bed and hot showers.  No internet, cell phone service or TV stations, so all we could do was enjoy the wind whistling through the pines,
the lake and always appreciated rest.

 

 

 

 

Day 14. Thursday, July 4 – Koocanusa to Eureka, Montana

Thursday 4 July 2013

It was quite chilly (52) when we started our one mile climb out of the campground, just after 6:00 this morning.  As cold as it was, we knew it was going to get hot and we didn’t know how long it was going to take us to climb our hills along Lake Koocanusa; 90 miles long stretching from Libby Dam through Canada.

Traveling on the east side of the lake, we watched the sun slowly rise above the mountains we biked the base of.  
Breaks in the mountain, gave us brief and blinding sun then back to shade.
The highway was almost deserted with the exception of our first bike tourers in several days.  Simon and Sean, from England, are traveling east to west and have been averaging 80 – 100 miles a day…….how embarrassing.  Guarantee they are not taking as many pictures as we are!
This road, cut out of the very impressive rock that dropps to the water, had evergreens growing out of the slightest crack.
Shadows from the mountains reached across the very wide lake;from our vantage point, the sunrise was quite dramatic.
Slowly climbed mile long hills, then gave it all back with mile long drops.  The climbs warming us in the cool air, a quick chill on the down, then warm again.
Saw a lot of wildlife today, wild turkeys and finally a couple of buck, but only managed a photo of this pretty girl, but it was a nice pose. For several days we have caught glimpses of eagles and thought it appropriate on our Nations birthday, that we manage a photo (albeit distant).

Around ten, as we turned from the lake we were in full sunshine and beautiful blue skies.

Within a few miles we began to see signs of civilazation, homes, powerlines and more traffic.  Though the hills on our last 15 miles were not nearly as long, the heat of the sun made the climbs tough, nonetheless.  Beautiful fields and signs of the old west lined our path into Eureka.  Stopped just outside of town, where the only two hotels lay.  We enjoyed the afternoon wind from a shaded picnic table and hoped it would blow itself out before tomorrow morning’s ride.

We Hope ALL have enjoyed their Fourth of July.

We Thank our military (past and present) for the Freedom to go where we want to go, do what we want to do; that unique quality of The United States of America!

 

Day 15. Friday, July 5 – Eureka to Whitefish, Montana

Saturday 6 July 2013

Today’s ride was simply Gorgeous, so just showing you pictures!
Yeah…… tried, but have to say something!

Left just before six this morning, just as the sun was coloring the clouds hanging over the Rockies……did we mention we were just four miles from the Canadian border, but heading south again!Pedaled three miles down to town into a cold (52), stiff head wind, hopefully the last remnants from yesterday, for breakfast at the 24 hour gas station.  Gulped down coffee and deep fried breakfast burrito (can you believe it?) …….gonna’ make up for this “breakfast” down the road.

Luckily, our course immediately turned Straight Up into the pines,out of the wind and into the countryside. We had two hours (but only 15 miles) rolling Up and down the rough back country roads, immensely enjoying the morning and it’s inhabitants.  You may not be able to tell, but this is Bambi. Turning back on to the highway and headwind and the roughly paved/patched road conditions did not improve.  Thank goodness the scenery was so spectacular, as the road was horrendous and there was No shoulder. Thankfully, the drivers were courteous (or felt sorry for us).  Twice we enjoyed a couple miles of freshly paved road; still no shoulder, but at least the white line was smooth.  Biking through one of the many glorious fields, we manage a great shot of a Bald Eagle soaring. What we didn’t manage to record on film was the eagle swooping down, right in front of me, grabbing a field mouse and whisking it away for lunch…..Amazing!

The entire day was up and down hills, wind in our face, cool temperatures, incredible scenery, screaming legs, cramping backs…….a perfect day!There was a lot of road construction on the way into Whitefish (certainly necessary), so didn’t manage a picture.  But we’ve promised the duckies a day off as they’ve spent almost 7 hours watching us bike and after 59 miles, we need rest.   We will show you Whitefish tomorrow, in the meantime, hope you enjoy our day of Big Sky Country below!

Day 16. Saturday, July 6 – Day Off in Whitefish, Montana

Saturday 6 July 2013

Whitefish, Montana!

Part ski resort town, part old western town!Sound a bit contrived?  Actually, this town started development when the railroad was built through it at the turn of the century 1900’s, for you youngn’s) and the skiing on Big Mountain began in the 40’s, so both are pretty valid.

For those not concerned about history, Whitefish is picturesque, perfect weather (for a couple of months a year) and a lot to eat, drink anddo; this weekend an art show in the park.

Trying to talk Jerry into taking this over the Rockies!!

Duckies got new tread for their web,and by the time we got them back to the room, they needed a bath ……very dirty duckies!

More pictures of the town are below, but we need to get off our feet.

We are not sure we will have any internet connection for the next day to three, but you can check our progress on the tracker, right of the page “Click Here to See Us Live”.  See you again, soon.

End of Week 3

Thursday 11 July 2013

Newport, Washington to Whitefish, Montana

265 Miles

1 Time Zone change

1 Day Off

Day 17. Sunday, July 7 – Whitefish to Lake McDonald Lodge, Montana

Saturday 6 July 2013

Another gorgeous day, albeit a bit breezy, as we headed out of town and once again into the countryside. The ride out of town was not as spectacularly gorgeous as the way in, but the roads were better, so we enjoyed it nonetheless.  Plus, the deer were everywhere and allowed close-ups. We chased this one back into the woods as she was too close to the road.

Met Thane from Boulder, flying down the road; doing the Continental Divide ride.  We related stories of the same paths we had taken and then continued on our way, the mountains ever present as we traversed.
Missed our turn at one point, only to find the beautiful waters of the Flathead River. Sometime during all the picture taking, “we” realized we had gone the wrong way.  Only a couple of extra miles, but the view of the river was worth it.  Back on course we rode through the wilderness and were always surprised to see homes tucked into the woods.
We did have a short three mile stretch of gravel road, But another beautiful river to cross with the most unreal color of blue 

Just before noon, our scenery started to change as we came to the entry to Glacier National Park. Stopped for lunch at a great cafe that offered the biggest slices of homemade pies you’ve ever seen; we had Huckleberry pie in our sights.  However, after our huge lunch, we had no room.
Entered the gateway and began our adventure, green hills, blue rivers,rafters taking advantage of the rapids and bears ……we really do NOT want to see one.
By 2:00, we arrived at our stop for the night, Lake McDonald Lodge. Up until noon, we were planning on camping, but we made one last phone call (the last of the hourly vigil we had been maintaining for two days) and secured a room at this beautiful property.  The Lodge was privately built in 1914, (acquired by the state park system years later) and is beautifully situated on Lake McDonald with stupendous views  of the mountain we have to climb tomorrow.
Though we were spent from the 45 mile (almost five hour) up and down ride from today, we managed a chat with the colorful locals (ground squirrel) a test of the icy cold waters and one last look at our climb tomorrow.
Tough day ahead, so early to bed.

Day 18. Monday, July 8 – Lake McDonald Lodge to Saint Mary, Montana

Tuesday 9 July 2013

Sunrise 5:47 a.m.

Duckie departure 5:30 a.m.

Even as we loaded our bikes with all our gear, we could feel the wind blowing and knew it would not be to our advantage.  We were “Going to the Sun” this morning; Glacier National Park’s most famous road. It is a 22 mile trek straight up the Continental Divide….that Mountain in front of us!

The “fly in the ointment” was, we had to have it completed by 11:00 am (National Park time allotment).  Tough to climb a steep mountain (and take pictures) under a time constraint, but that was our only option.  So, out of the door with no coffee and half a stale cinnamon roll.

We had a ten mile pedal to get to the “climb”, scary thought since we were doing our best to make forward progress on this part, especially with the wind in our face.  Naturally, it was beautiful.

Nestled deep in the forest, we could see the moss covering the forest floorwhile looking for any bears that may be concealed in the darkness. We could hear the music of the streams rushing down the mountain; magical when we could catch a glimpse. We watched the sun kiss the mountain top, then retreat behind the clouds rolling over the mountains.  

We hoped the 40% chance of rain predicted, would hold off at least until we reached the summit.  But the wind in our face was also quickly blowing the clouds over the mountain towards us.Our progress was laboriously slow, stopping as little as possible with the clock ticking in our minds, but managed a “few” photos (okay, close to 400, between the two of us). Someone had told us the first six miles up was the toughest, but they must have only gone five miles; there was no part of this ride that was easy, gorgeous YES,

easy NO.

Climbing the Road to the Sun is difficult to describe and photos don’t seem to do it much justice either, but that did not stop us from trying.  All the photos (many duplicates) are below, but we’ll point out a couple of notables.

Bird Woman Falls-

nearly a 500 foot drop.

Two tunnelsone critterand the most incredible Heaven’s Peak summit.Standing at 8987 feet, it was impressive from every angle.Other than that it was mountain peaks, glaciersand waterfalls of all kinds…..and then The Summit…..by ten o’clock in the morning.You would have thought we’d climbed Mt Everest, but we were ecstatic with our 3000 foot climb to Logan Pass.  Even the sun came out to light the mountain tops.Fabulous.

We hesitated to leave, but our trip into town was not a short one, nor all down hill.  Dropping down the greener east side of the pass we were met with a gusty headwind, more incredible viewsand an unbelievable shot of this glacier.Still more climbing, albeit not nearly as steep or long, but tough on our tired legs.  On our twenty plus mile ride from the top and stunning views.Took a lunch break along St. Mary’s Lakeand noticed the clouds were forming again, with gusto.This is Triple Divide Peak,one of the few places on earth whose waters feed three oceans (Pacific, Atlantic or Arctic ocean).  And then we come to the point where the Rockies meet the prairie.  Only forty miles today, but we were toast.  We watched from our motel perch the storms forming over the mountains.Then the wind swept down bringing with it arctic temperatures and rain. We hustled inside and put on every stitch of clothing we could find, it was Cold.

Thankfully, the rain stopped in time for dinner and a slice of Razzelberry Pie ala mode.