A clear, crisp and sunny 55° morning as we began our ride on the C & O Canal.  We picked up the North Branch of the Potomac River as we left Cumberland.  This trail has a very different maintenance regime than the Allegheny Passage.  As pretty as the path was, it was twice as bumpy and sometimes very narrow.  We bounced along the trail  like a wooden wagon on a cobblestone street; any photos required stopping.  Progress was slow due to the gravel and root filled path.  The canal the path parallels is either dried upor a mucky green, but enough of the locks remain to offer a glimpse to the past.

With the exception of our rattling down the path, it was wonderfully quiet morning; wildlife everywhere.  Though the deer could hear us coming, we did get one to pose for us, along with a huge crane.  The turtles and ducks were a little less concerned with our presence.  At about 30 miles, we came to the Paw Paw Tunnel, an unlit, heavily rutted half mile stretch.  Riding was not an option and walking was very slow due to the uneven footing.  The rock wall the tunnel was cut through, gave pause as to how it was accomplished back in the early 1800’s.  We had the occasional glimpse of the Potomac and the clouds that had gathered in the blue sky.  At 1:00 we took a break at the only place for food on the entire stretch today; it was needed…..we had been shaken, not stirred.  We only had six more miles of getting bounced around, before we turned on to the paved Western Maryland Railroad Trail.  The day had become completely overcast keeping the temperature barely above 70°.  It had been a long and slow 62 miles, but a beautiful day, nonetheless.  Just across the street a mountain of meatloaf awaited us.

As we left our motel room, we met a wonderful Korean family, Jeon Jin Won, Yun Yony Sook and their son Lee Ho cHeal, traveling from Oceanside, California to Annapolis, Maryland.  Much was lost in translation, but the enthusiasm of the father and this bicycle adventure was intoxicating.

For our first ten miles we enjoyed the last of the paved trail, before dropping back to the C & O.  Thankfully, the trail was in slightly better shape than yesterday’s segment, enough to make all the difference in our enjoyment of the gorgeous weather and stunning scenery.  Picture taking still required stopping, but that gave us the opportunity to meet Nanette and Nikki, also enjoying the day by bicycle.  We were pushing hard on the dirt path and by the time we took our first break in Williamsport our legs were tired.  The rest was scenic and wonderful as we watched a colorful field of happiness....life at it’s best!

The path was lined with huge trees,and at some places was quite narrow, but the day continued to be gorgeous, cool air, beautiful sunshine, superlative, superlative!  This paved path along the rocks was an excellent improvement, since our last trip on the C & O six years ago.  But the miles were stacking up, we were hungry and then to add insult to injury, we hit a seven mile stretch of really rough path.   Our lunch stop was much further away than expected, plus we had to climb up to a bridge to to cross into West Virginia.  By the time we found a place to eat (at 2:00), we were barking at each other.  A couple of turkey and swiss on homemade sundries tomato bread and a cookie brought our spirits back.  An hour later, we were back on the Maryland side of the Potomac and feeling much better with some nourishment, the scenery continued to delight.  The afternoon was getting long and we still had one more challenge to face, before we could stop.  Unknown to us when we planned this stop, our hotel was a one mile straight up climb with a quarter mile downhill finish.  Finally, we stopped pedaling just before 5:00.  We were so looking forward to a nice dinner and could see the restaurant across the street.  But it was a “family” restaurant that did not serve adult beverages; not to sound like lushes, but after 72 miles we were in the mood for an adult beverage (or two).  It was a beautiful evening and our porch had a great view of the Appalachian Mountains, so we bought a bottle of wine and had dinner come to us....it was perfect.

Our host, Dr. Singh, left us with a interesting word of wisdom.  “Bike is the only vehicle that man is yoked.”  Keep an eye on this guy, he’s brilliant and will go far.

Good Night!

A bit warmer (60°), as we did our short uphill and then our mile long down to rejoin the trail.  It was a beautiful morning on the trail with an occasional glimpse of the Potomac.  Pretty wildflowers and grand old trees lined the trail and lock houses looked welcoming. Mountains still rose high on the other side of the river, while rocks formed a wall along the canal.   Twenty four miles down the road, we reached White’s Ferry from a different direction than we had in the past.  Not having had much of a breakfast, we stopped for fuel and a nice long rest.  An hour later, during a stop for photos, we met meteorologist Tom Kierein with WRC TV in D.C., along with a couple families enjoying the day by bike.  This dog didn’t care, he just wanted someone to throw his oversized stick.  After a half an hour, we had to go and put a few miles behind us.

Our stop for lunch (pulled pork sandwich) was so quick, could not get to the camera for a shot, before it was gone.  The scenery remained stellar with lots to take pictures of…..can you see the look on this bird’s face?

 Another photo stop at Rock Falls, the beauty of this spot never ceases to amaze.  We knew we were getting closer, but couldn’t seem to close the gap on the miles quick enough.

Our first glance of the city was the backdrop to these darling deer.  They stayed so long for photos, we thought it was a tourist attraction we’d have to pay for; it was quite the treat!  Finally at 3:00, we reached the end of the C & O Canal and the edge of Georgetown.  Some tricking navigating through the streets with commuters trying to get out of the city for the weekend.  Ten minutes later, we had crossed the bridge into Virginia and were checked in.  We had been blessed with incredible fall like temperatures in the middle of August, which contributed immensely to our enjoyment of the last week along these two trails.

Celebrated reaching Virginia with our long lost friend, Ramsey, that had driven an hour and a half to see us…..Crazy Man!  It was a good dinner and great fun to reunite, but it had been a hard 62 miles ride and we needed to go to bed.  We bid our goodnights and made promises to connect again, soon.

Industry, Pennsylvania to Arlington, Virginia

392 Miles

One block from our hotel, we picked up the Mt. Vernon trail and joined the hundreds of people already out exercising and enjoying the 70° morning.  The view along the Potomac in the early morning light was pretty impressive.  We took pictures when we could, but the obstacle course of people proved to be challenging; though we were happy to be on the trail and not road.  We passed Reagan National Airport, loosing our last opportunity to take the quick and easy way home.  A quick drop on to the road through Old Town Alexandria then back on the trail.  Our obstacle course started adding sharp ups and downs, too tight and crowed to enjoy any opportunity for a downhill (or photo).  Our almost nineteen mile trail, ended at George Washington’s home of Mt. Vernon.  We climbed past Washington’s Distillery and Gristmill and made our way to Route 1 and breakfast.  Not sure how we managed 22 miles of ups and downs on a cup of coffee, but knew we needed replenishment, soon.  Once out on the open road, we realized just how strong the southeast wind was blowing.  What a pleasure the last week on the trails had been, not having to concern ourselves with the wind.

Not much more to see or talk about from here; it was just a matter of forward progress and survival.  In an effort to get off the very busy (no shoulder) Highway One, we ventured on a much longer, much hiller “alternative” route.  It took every muscle in our bodies to climb the long and steep hills into the wind, one after another. The one and only option for a picture was as we crossed the  Occoquan River; it was also the only flat portion on our ride. It took several miles to rejoin Route 1, but the climbing continued, as did the wind.  We stopped often to catch our breath and give our legs a break.  The traffic, narrow shoulder and wind was really working us and we felt every mile of the last 50 days.  We actually managed to do close to 54 miles, before calling Uncle.  Thankfully, dinner was right next door and sleep not far away.

An overcast early Sunday morning start to avoid as much of the traffic as possible.  Hills began with the first pedal push and did not quit, so photos were at a minimum.  We began to curse the Mattaponi River, as we dropped to met the Ni Creek, then the Po Creek and finally, the Matta creek; having to climb up from each creek bed.  Thankfully, traffic was sparse as we crept along the treelined road.  Pedaling through Fredericksburg, the trees had dropped away and we noticed there was a slight in your face breeze beginning to rustle the flags; that would not be helpful.  We had pushed hard up and down the relentless long hills, reaching the south edge of Fredericksburg by 8:45.

Our next goal was to reach Ashland by noon, but the hills were non-stop.  The silver lining being the fast fly-downs and the mostly overcast sky.  A carrot of a Hardee’s ice tea, kept us pushing up each hill.  Reaching the edge of town, made a quick detour for a photo of my childhood home, then some iced cold tea.  Never in a million years, would we have expected to see this sign.  Defeated after pedaling 52 miles in five hours, and dripping in the humidity, we limped to the next place a quarter of a mile away and chilled.  It was a nice, long refreshing break and just what we needed to continue.  By the time we left the air conditioning, the sun made a brief visit and the temperatures that had held below 80°, soared into the 90’s.  The traffic had also gotten crazy, the wind was now serious, but so close to seeing family, we were not discouraged.

We’d spent just over six and a half hours on the bike, cranking out 71 miles, but all was forgotten when we reached my father’s home for a mini-family reunion.  Meet my cousin Bobby, his wife Kim, my father and you should know the other two characters.  It was a wonderful evening.

An overcast, humid early(6:50 a.m.) morning start; so humid it fell on us a bit, as we crossed over the interstate (for the first of four times) on our way around the city’s rush hour traffic.  A few hills, two hours and twenty miles later, we stopped on the southeast side of the city; we needed a break from the hectic start and some breakfast.

By the time we pushed away from breakfast, the work day had begun.  Traffic was light, though we had ample shoulder on several miles of flat road.  Once the hills started to build, the road narrowed and the shoulder was minimal, but traffic was still light.  The on/off light sprinkle kept the morning in the low 70’s.  Treetops rustled in the wind, which we did not experience until a few miles before Williamsburg; thankfully, it was not directly in our face.  There had not been many opportunities to stop on this road between Richmond and Williamsburg.  So after five hours of hard pedaling, we took a lunch break on the edge of town.  Twenty minutes after lunch, we were checked in.

The disadvantage of bicycling an area we have lived and traveled for years, is nothing seems new, so we forget to take pictures for memory sake.  Not to mention the barn door is open and we are ready to be home!

One last night of pasta, before back to the reality of not gorging ourselves all day, everyday.  A delicious choice and good conclusion to a 63 mile day.