A clear, crisp and sunny 55° morning as we began our ride on the C & O Canal.  We picked up the North Branch of the Potomac River as we left Cumberland.  This trail has a very different maintenance regime than the Allegheny Passage.  As pretty as the path was, it was twice as bumpy and sometimes very narrow.  We bounced along the trail  like a wooden wagon on a cobblestone street; any photos required stopping.  Progress was slow due to the gravel and root filled path.  The canal the path parallels is either dried upor a mucky green, but enough of the locks remain to offer a glimpse to the past.

With the exception of our rattling down the path, it was wonderfully quiet morning; wildlife everywhere.  Though the deer could hear us coming, we did get one to pose for us, along with a huge crane.  The turtles and ducks were a little less concerned with our presence.  At about 30 miles, we came to the Paw Paw Tunnel, an unlit, heavily rutted half mile stretch.  Riding was not an option and walking was very slow due to the uneven footing.  The rock wall the tunnel was cut through, gave pause as to how it was accomplished back in the early 1800’s.  We had the occasional glimpse of the Potomac and the clouds that had gathered in the blue sky.  At 1:00 we took a break at the only place for food on the entire stretch today; it was needed…..we had been shaken, not stirred.  We only had six more miles of getting bounced around, before we turned on to the paved Western Maryland Railroad Trail.  The day had become completely overcast keeping the temperature barely above 70°.  It had been a long and slow 62 miles, but a beautiful day, nonetheless.  Just across the street a mountain of meatloaf awaited us.