Nine years ago this month, we biked down (and back) to this area to stay with a bunch of crazy friends, as a training ride for our very first bike tour.  Seemed centuries ago, yet can remember it like yesterday.  You would think we would have learned with that first ride, yet here we are. Today, we begin a re-trace of that very first ride.

Early morning is such a lovey time to bike (just a shame you have to wake up to do it);  overcast skies offered relief from the sun on this humid morning.  No one was on the road as we biked past homes hanging to their waterfront perch.    Within a mile we were in the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge and then Cape Hatteras National Seashore; 20 miles of quiet, we could even hear the small waves on the other side of the dune.  Even without homes being built on top of the dunes, you could still see the wrath of past storms.  In places, no dune remained, but it gave us a chance to catch a glimpse of the serene sea.  At the end of Pea Island is the Bonner Bridge over the Oregon Inlet.  I remember seeing this from my bicycle for the very first time; talk about scared and intimidated.  This time, we were just happy to not have to climb the new and much taller bridge currently under construction.  This morning’s crossing was much more enjoyable and relaxing, but without shoulders on the bridge, pictures were not possible.  We did manage a picture of the Bodie Island Lighthouse.

Our first sign of civilization was South Nags Head and we immediately turned on to the beach road.  There seemed to be a lot more homes here than nine years ago, but some of the old classics still remained.Also, the road had been freshly paved with an added ample shoulder for bicycles.

We reached our favorite Outer Banks breakfast stop just before ten.  The forecast for today had been for a very light southwest breeze, but it was only west, a bit more than a breeze and becoming a tiring nuisance.  So after 25+ miles, we needed a rest.  We gobbled down breakfast, before the camera came out and a half an hour later, we are on the road again.  The wind was picking up, but the sky was still overcast and the temperature had yet to reach 80°.  With a nice shoulder to ride, the bike up the beach road was wonderful.  The size of the rental homes were astounding and based by the number of cars parked at many, offered at least ten bedrooms.  Also shocking, was how little sand dune was left in some areas of Kitty Hawk.  Homes that had endured countless storms, hung precariously to what was left of the remaining sandy terrafirma.  By 11:00 and 40 miles pedaled, we reached our original destination for this evening, but since we added 20 miles to yesterday, we wanted to pay it forward today as well; luckily we had found a place to stay further up the road.  A left turn and two miles later, we headed over the Currituck Sound into a direct headwind.  Though it was not a high bridge, it was a brutal two mile pedal into the strong wind.  Once on the mainland, the road turned north, so there was relief from the wind.  We biked past the new waterpark, “supposedly” set to open on June 21 (our bets it is not going to happen), as well as several other interesting businesses.  We went past a vineyard, but with a deep gravel driveway and tired legs, a tasting was out of the question.  However, just short of our hotel, we did manage to stop for our daily ice tea, plus an additional chocolate milk shake.  We did not linger, as we really wanted a shower.  However, when we arrived at our “lodge” no one was anywhere to be found.  An hour earlier, we had talked about heading all the way home with the tailwind we had finally gotten.  Now that we actually might have to do it, it really did not sound that good.  While we waited to check in, we enjoyed the waterfront view and perching Osprey.  It did not take us long to shower and return to socialize with the owner, Barry, and other characters around the bar.  Barry’s Lodge and Restaurant is a colorful place on the Currituck Sound, offering fabulous food and a picture perfect sunset.Sixty two miles closer to home tonight and we are ready!