A sunny and cold 54° when we left this morning, that is frost on the ground.

Thankfully, there was virtually no traffic on the six miles it took us to climb out of town and reach our country road.  Soaked from exertion, we froze when we finally hit a downhill.  And so would be the pattern for miles, climb, drop, climb, drop; we had found the sharks teeth topography from yesterday and they were not letting go of our legs.  The grades on these country roads proved much more challenging then biking on the highway, yet still we had the truck traffic.  We really needed some of the tailwind bravado we had yesterday.  But it was a gorgeous morning and the rolling hillside made for pretty vistas (if you didn’t have to bike them).  After 36 miles, we needed a rest and fuel and once again found a local spot known for their hotdogs.  The town of Lisbon, the oldest town (1803) in Ohio, is known for whisky, apples and the invention of the drinking straw (sucker) patented in 1900 (who knew?).  Once back on the bike, the climbing continued past green hills and small towns.  Our next break was three hours later (52 miles) as we dropped down to the Ohio River (that’s West Virginia on the other side of the water) at the “Pottery Capital of America.” It was a pretty stop, but we’d been unable to find a place to stay in town, so we had to keep going.  The road along the river was not nearly as brutal, as the previous 50 miles, but we were spent, so it was still a struggle.  We biked through some depressed towns, across the Pennsylvania border and past a large nuclear power facility.  After over six hours on the bicycle seat, we finally found our place to rest for the night.  With a restaurant attached to the motel, we did not have to go far for dinner.  The dinner menu was buffet, and this is just the salad bar.  After 65 miles, there was no way they would make money on us, tonight.

Valparaiso, Indiana to Industry, Pennsylvania

406 Miles

A foggy 54° was much colder this morning without the sun to warm our bodies.  Within a couple of blocks, we had to stop and throw on jackets for our five mile beautiful ride along the river to breakfast.  It was worth it.

After breakfast, we pedaled through the nicely renovated Beaver downtown, across the Beaver River then across the Ohio River.  The morning route was along a highway with no shoulder, but the Saturday morning traffic was minimal.  It took two hours for the sun to rise above the soft clouds, but the temperatures remained cool.  Homes were stacked on the steep hillside and though we had climbing, we were happy it was not that steep.  We rode past patriotic neighborhoods and the dilapidating buildings the steel industry had left behind.  In order to avoid a few hills we crossed over to Neville Island with a township on one end and industry on the other.  Back on the southside of the Ohio River, we encountered a couple more climbs then a few miles of some hairy construction before reaching Pittsburgh and a quiet bike path.  This is the way to see the city, great views and away from the traffic.  It was a picture perfect day; exactly what the Chamber of Commerce would order for a Pirate’s and Steelers weekend.  And what better way to enjoy the day and view of the city then over lunch and beer.  We enjoyed the last few miles along the Monongahela River, retraceing the path we’d biked five years ago and not going much faster than these guys..…in no hurry to get out of the way of cars.  It was a leisurely 46 mile ride today, but we ate like we’d pedaled the Rockies, or maybe just the 2300 miles so far.

We had been looking forward to the quietness of this trail since riding with tractor trailers in Iowa; it did not disappoint.  The morning started off a cool 61° and with the partial overcast all morning, it did not go up more than ten degrees by the time we stopped for lunch.  The trail was not without it’s climbing, over railroad tracks and crossing of the Monongahela and Youghiogheny Rivers; not to mention the general uphill slant of the entire ride.  We passed more industry, a dam and twenty acres of steel pipe. A few miles down the road, we stopped in town for Gatorade and naturally got caught by a train.  The Allegheny Passage is a beautiful trail through back yards of neighborhoods and with places to grab refreshments along the way.  Everyone seemed to be enjoying the trail or on the river on this beautiful Sunday morning.  Stopped for lunch on the side of the trail, where lunch was served on the lawn of the nearby house.  Fresh tomatoes and a darling kitty, made for a perfect stop.  We slowly meandered up the trail, enjoying the sites and history. By 2:30, we reached the edge of town with a conveniently located Wendy’s and Frosty stop; half a mile further, we were checked in.

With the Duckies spending the night in the garage of our B & B, we walked the half mile to dinner.  It was a good thing for all that we ate and drank.  On the long walk back, found a happy hour we could not resist.  Not sure 53 miles warrants a milkshake, but it was up hill!

A shout out to the couple we met at breakfast this morning (sorry we did not get your names); hope you first day of bike touring was Great.

 One of the joys of staying at a Bed and Breakfast, is…..breakfast, banana pancakes with carmel icing, etc, etc.

We began our day in a 64° totally overcast perfect day to bike.  A few blocks through townover a bridge and we were back on the trail.  With all the weekenders gone, we had the trail to ourselves.  The sound of the rapids on the river joined the singing of the birds for our pedal up the beautiful Youghiogheny River.  Our occasional view of the river through the trees, showed just how high the mountains were that we were climbing.  Progress was slow, as much for the stopping to take pictures, as it was for the continuous incline.  Leaves were just starting to change and the higher we climbed, the more our path became blanketed with leaves.  The rock walls that rose straight up the mountain were amazing, too, but more difficult to express in a photo.  Behind all this beauty is decades worth of coal mining.Stopped in Ohiopyle, a town we remembered from our first passage, for coffee, but it was too early for the shops.  A quick pic of the sleeping town, then back on the trail.  At the halfway point, we stopped along the confluence (also the name of the town) of the Youghiogheny and Casselman Rivers for a rest and lunch, but when the waitress didn’t show after ten minutes, Mr. Impatient said we’d go to the next place. The overcast skies were beginning to brighten, but the temperatures still remained cool and the day gorgeous.A breeze was blowing through the tree tops and the sun was reaching through, lighting the wildflowers along the path.Two hours and twenty miles later, we arrived at lunch at 1:30, a bit spent.A quick sandwich, then back on our trail.  Today was the first day we’d seen deer (and plenty of them) in over a month.  And as curious as they were about us, they were very camera shy.  Crossing the Salisbury Viaduct offered us a beautiful view of the valley below,the beginning of civilization and a duck.  Arriving at the edge of townwe met Jack and Janet (from Mansfield, Ohio) waiting for their kids, John and Debbie to finish their leg of the trail.  We enjoyed the chat, but it was time to get cleaned up and get a cold drink.  Three blocks away down a hill (we would have to climb tomorrow) Duckies pulled in to their B & B for the evening.The Levi Deal Mansion is a Gorgeous B & B, inside and out, but more of that tomorrow.  We were hungry and tonight was Pizza night; we were not disappointed.  It was made that much sweeter, by our host and hostess for the evening presenting us with a magnificent dessert when we returned from dinner.  Thoroughly stuffed and satiated after 62 miles, we went to bed.

What day cannot be great, when it starts with a breakfast like this?  Camera shy, Michael and Jan, have done an exquisite job on an over one hundred year old structure and are the perfect hosts; this B & B is worth coming back to (just not on a bike).

The day was just as gorgeous as the breakfast was delicious.  Sunny yet cool with a wonderful breeze blowing through the treetops; perfect for anything outside.  We left the river, but occasionally crossed a pretty creek.Biked over bridges, of which there were many; The Bollman Bridge the most notable.

There was only eight miles to the “Eastern Continental Divide” at 2392 feet,where we caught up with Richard and Alma (from New Jersey), whom we’d met at the B & B.  Our wonderful ride down traversed through several tunnels; Big Savage Tunnel being the longest at almost 3,300 feet long; views on the other side……stupendous.  Crossed the Mason Dixon line into Maryland and continued our downward ride with beautiful vistas and towns, this is of Mt. Savage.  Another railroad reference. we rode the Helmstetter’s “Horseshoe” Curve, now a bit too overgrown to see, but interesting  story.  Thirty minutes later we came to the end of the Alleghaney Passage and tomorrow we begin the C & O Canal.  Cumberland is a pretty town; embracing the railroad heritage and bikers that travel through.

Way too early to check in (excuse for the day) we stopped for lunch at an ice cream shop!!  A pastrami sandwich with grilled onions disappeared before a camera could be found.  The peanut butter homemade ice cream shake lasted maybe a minute longer.

It was a wonderful short (33 miles), mostly downhill ride, or in Jerry terms……a day off.

A couple blocks away, we found a wonderful local restaurant and a delicious dinner.For dessert, a glorious sky,  restful night and promise of tomorrow.

A clear, crisp and sunny 55° morning as we began our ride on the C & O Canal.  We picked up the North Branch of the Potomac River as we left Cumberland.  This trail has a very different maintenance regime than the Allegheny Passage.  As pretty as the path was, it was twice as bumpy and sometimes very narrow.  We bounced along the trail  like a wooden wagon on a cobblestone street; any photos required stopping.  Progress was slow due to the gravel and root filled path.  The canal the path parallels is either dried upor a mucky green, but enough of the locks remain to offer a glimpse to the past.

With the exception of our rattling down the path, it was wonderfully quiet morning; wildlife everywhere.  Though the deer could hear us coming, we did get one to pose for us, along with a huge crane.  The turtles and ducks were a little less concerned with our presence.  At about 30 miles, we came to the Paw Paw Tunnel, an unlit, heavily rutted half mile stretch.  Riding was not an option and walking was very slow due to the uneven footing.  The rock wall the tunnel was cut through, gave pause as to how it was accomplished back in the early 1800’s.  We had the occasional glimpse of the Potomac and the clouds that had gathered in the blue sky.  At 1:00 we took a break at the only place for food on the entire stretch today; it was needed…..we had been shaken, not stirred.  We only had six more miles of getting bounced around, before we turned on to the paved Western Maryland Railroad Trail.  The day had become completely overcast keeping the temperature barely above 70°.  It had been a long and slow 62 miles, but a beautiful day, nonetheless.  Just across the street a mountain of meatloaf awaited us.