In the old days, we would have cranked out the 55 miles into the north wind to get to Bay City,  but with this new attitude to take it slower, we opted to do the mileage in two days.  Maybe we are getting wiser!

It was a very crisp 63° degree, with the wind chill in the 50’s, when we left late this morning.  The sun was glistening off the water and there was not a cloud in the sky, absolutely gorgeous.  Just yards from our door, we crossed the three mile bridge to Point Comfort with no way to hide from the 16 mph wind, tough warm-up.  Thankfully, our northeast direction avoided a full frontal assault.  The tall structures in the distance are a manufacturing plant and oil refinery, both went on for miles, but provided good wind protection.  With the smooth road, little traffic and occasional line of trees offering protection, the ride was enjoyable and scenic.  Farms and ranches lined the road as far as we could see.  A slight turn and our route skirted several bays with vacation homes and long docks stretching into the shallow waters.

We pedaled the outskirts of our destination town in search of the grocery store for needed supplies.  One turn from the store and we were on a quaint tree lined street; lawn mowers and the occasional  barking dog was the only thing to break the quiet.  Reaching the waterfront, we were even more surprised at the lack of development and flashiness; this was the largest home on the water.  It was so peaceful.

Not knowing what to expect, we were surprised at how large our waterfront historical Luther Hotel was.  It was a lot of fun taking a step back in time and looking at their wall of fame (includes Rita Hayworth and Harry James).  On the way to dinner, we strolled through the small town and quiet waterfront, only a few families enjoying the beautiful Sunday afternoon.

The only restaurant within walking distance was Mexican, but this was a Fabulous find.  Bacon wrapped shrimp, fajitas and the absolutely freshest and best guacamole and pico de gallo we have ever had at a restaurant.  Not sure our 30 mile day deserved all this deliciousness, but…….we are on vacation!

Left at 8:00 this morning, much earlier than normal for a short ride, but we’d already toured the small town and coastal homes and breakfast was toast and coffee, so not much to linger for except one last photo.  Another gorgeous morning; sunny, crisp, 58° with a very light breeze out of the north.  It was a pleasant ride with the exception of the rough road.  We relished the small stretches of smooth pavement, only to be disappointed when it did not last.  But with ample shoulder and extremely courteous drivers, we really could not complain (too much).  Pretty farm houses and wild flowers again our entertainment.  This building was compelling from a distance, like a huge house with massive columns; it is a organic seed preparation plant.

We reached town by 11:00, wildflowers and a pretty park welcoming us in.  Tried to slow down, but there was just not a lot to see; an early lunch was in order.  While waiting at a stop light, we asked someone their suggestion for something other than a Mexican lunch.  Two block later we stopped for a most amazing lunch, The Fat Grass.  Had it not been for the recommendation, we would not have even realized it was a place to eat.  The menu was deliciously extensive, but we both opted for the lunch special.  So mouthwatering, we have to share the details.  An hour later, we pushed away from the table, pedaled the remaining miles and were fortunate to be able to check in early.  We spent a few hours planning our next several days and all of a sudden, it was time to eat again.  Only 34 miles and this is what we eat?  Definitely not a tour we will loose weight on.

Our little highway was bustling with noise when we pushed away at 8:30.  Once we settled into the rhythm of our pedal strokes, the traffic thinned out and we almost had the road to ourselves.  The morning was warmer (68°) than we have had, but the humidity was low, the light breeze cool and comfortable.  Small homes and business were dispersed among farms with wonderful old growth trees.  All this countryside was suddenly replaced with a massive chemical company that stretched for miles.  Fortunately for us, there was not large truck traffic to go with it.

Once past the plant, we turned off the highway to our first country road since beginning this tour; the contrast was dramatic.  We glided along ten miles of small farms, country homes and treelined streets….…and a Willis.  Once back on the highway that would lead us into town, there was still very little traffic and the shoulder wide and smooth.  In fact, today’s course was the best roads we have experienced so far.  A quick stop at a bike shop for supplies and course/road advice and then on to our hotel.

Lake Jackson is a big area with a lot of hotel choices, but we picked tonight’s lodging based solely on the proximity of an Italian restaurant.  The choice was a very good call; a basket full of amazing fresh bread and a combo plate of five different delicious pasta dishes topped with mozzarella and baked together…..Oh My!

We are enjoying our new attitude of shorter distances, today’s 42 miles was perfect.

Industry and highway is how we started the morning and both remained for a good stretch.  But the shoulder was smooth, wide and not as trashed as we had been warned, so the ride was comfortable considering the surroundings.  At seven miles we lost most of the traffic, which was good timing since the shoulder was under construction.  Two miles later we approached the Intracoastal bridge that would take us to the barrier islands.  The climb was steep, but with no wind to fight, it was not bad and the view from the top, rather impressive.The half mile difference from end to end of the bridge was deafeningly quiet.  Surfside Beach looked deserted, so we had the Blue Water Highway all to ourselves.  Vacation homes of all sizeswere scattered along the shore. There was no protective sand dune on the island,so surprised that vehicles were allowed to drive and camp on the beach

By ten this morning, we reached the two mile long bridge to Galveston Island.  It is a two dollar toll, but we were waved through.

Thirty miles into our ride with very little seat break, Jerry spotted a picnic bench in the shade.  We poached an RV’s vacant spot and enjoyed the rest.  Another hour later, as we approached another stretch of fields, we stopped for lunch.  This was only the third food stop in thirty miles, since arriving on the islands, so we grabbed it.  This is a beautiful area with long stretches of homes in every size, shape, and color (a lot more below) and then miles of farms. After 46 miles of biking, we finally came into the retail/commercial/tourist end of Galveston and the seawall.  Galveston has suffered and survived through many a storm.  The seawall was created after the 1900 hurricane and tidal wave, when 6,000 lives were lost; a beautiful sculpture now stands to commemorate the loss of lives from that storm.  The beach, non-exixtanst at the beginning of the seawall grows nicelyas you move further up the island.  There is so much to see, so the rest of the story is below (in photos).  Today was an enjoyable ride, sun was hot (90° in the sun), but only 76° in the shade with a cool breeze off the water.  A perfect finish after 52 miles.

Last night’s colors from “The Pleasure Pier”!

What a difference a day makes!Yesterday’s warm sunshine and light cool breeze off the water was replaced with a blistering cold wind out of the north and no sun to warm the morning.  Pedaling hard into the wind could not warm us up in the four mile distance to get to the ferry that would take us to the Bolivar Peninsula.

Our wait for the ferry was just long enough to snap a few pictures, before heading across the channel that links the Gulf of Mexico to Galveston Bay.  Inside the warmth of the ferryboat, we met Rick; filled with great info about the area and the affect of both Harvey last year and Hurricane Ike ten years ago.  He pointed out the “innovative” concrete ship that did not make it far from it’s berth and how the color of the water here was not as blue, as further south (Padre Island) due to the proximity of the Mississippi River.

Almost an hour after arriving at the ferry dock, we disembarked on The Bolivar Peninsula; wide at this western end and the only homes perched near the water in the distance.  Between the ferry and the wind, we had only traveled ten miles in two hours; it was going to be a long day.  As the island narrowed, we got a true taste of the character of the east part of Galveston County; not as polished as Galveston.  This is the area that really took the hit from Hurricane Ike ten years ago with a lot of empty property for sale.   Vacant slabs still show the destruction (this is where the most dramatic photos of the hurricane came from).

After a ten mile stretch of homes and interesting, splashy and creative (a drive-up coffee shop) businesses, we had a long straight stretch of flat land, only occasionally sprinkled with homes. Right next to an oil field was this very extravagant new development, selling million dollar homes.  This little gem rents for about $750. a night!

We were amazed with how low lying the entire area is; a two foot rise of the sea would flood everything.  New construction was obvious by the elevation, this is the high school.

Homes disappeared as the peninsula narrowed, giving full view of the shrimp trollers we hoped were catching our dinner.

Shortly after noon our road took a turn directly into the wind.  Can’t say we had enjoyed the wind just on our shoulder, but we definitely did not enjoy it directly in our face.  This was a good time to take a lunch break.  A half hour later we were back on the road to face the wind and another tall two mile bridge over a shipping channel.  We much prefer traversing these channels via a ferry, but you cannot beat the view.  We were fortunate to be on top when a barge pushing quite the load, passed below us.  After the bridge was a long straight unprotected from the wind stretch of low land seagrass, brush and bayous.  We battled the wind as the wind battered our legs.  It was three in the afternoon, when we finally saw our first stand of trees, hoping it was a sign that our town was in sight.  Winnie is small, but our approach was……colorful.  A quick stop for a cold beer to go and we were checked in by 3:45.

We had felt so good yesterday after our 52 mile ride, but today’s blow made our 55 miles a struggle; six hours of saddle time was an hour longer than yesterday.

We were richly rewarded with a full on Country Cajun dinner, Chicken Fried Chicken with gravy, fried Okra and a pile of Shrimp of every flavor (maybe not as many as Gump named)……all Good!

Our original intention was not to take a day off here, but our ride into the wind two days ago had beaten us up.  And the very late hour we retired last night helped to convince us to sleep in.

Not much to report for the day.  We treated the duckies to a nice massage (aka: tune-up) by Tom and Bhavaniand in the afternoon an amazing tuneup on our bodies (i.e. massage).

We spent a wonderfully relaxing afternoon and evening; words cannot describe how theraputic the day of was.

See you on the road, tomorrow.

We have been fortunate and very thankful for the cool days and low humidity (so far) in Texas and this morning was no exception.

The wind had tapered to 10 mph, though still in our face, it added just that bit of extra effort on our short jaunt out of the quiet town.  Passed one rusty, yet still functioning, refinery and then the obligatory cow fields,horses,large churches, curbside flowers and huge shade trees!  One the way into town, we were treated to a few of the beautifully painted roadside electrical boxes, but too slow on the camera to get more than one.

It was a short ride today; we had a goal to get to Beaumont to reconnect with good friends.

You talk to anyone in Texas or that knows Beaumont and their consistent comment is, “Why would you want to go to Beaumont”…..did we mention they are good friends?!

Arrived in town at high noon to have lunch with Jerry’s college track buddy, Lou.  Caught up in catching up, we neglected pictures.  After lunch, we biked the two miles to Rita’s home.  Little did we know, we had walked into an Architectural Digest home of the year……. indescribably gorgeous.

We were generally welcomed to to her home.After catching up and relaxing for a bit, our wonderful hostess throws us a party, including awesome music.  Everyone was so much fun and the food so amazing,including our first Boudainwe forgot all but a few photos.

There may not be a lot to do in Beaumont, but when you have a houseful of friends, what more could could you need!  We would have named this place Shangri-La, but the actual name is even more appropriate.